Wet facade. Technology

Maintaining the structural integrity and visual appeal of your home depends on your ability to manage a wet facade. A building’s exterior where the facade actively controls moisture is referred to as having a wet facade. Wet facades include systems that actively control water penetration and humidity levels, in contrast to traditional facades that only use cladding or surface treatments.

A wet facade’s technology consists of multiple essential parts intended to stop water from seeping in and shield the structure from moisture-related damage. A drainage system that is hidden behind the facade material is one of the main components. This system lowers the possibility of water damage and mold growth inside the walls by allowing any water that enters the outer layer to drain away harmlessly.

The ventilation plan of a wet facade is another crucial component. By controlling the amount of humidity in the wall cavity, proper ventilation helps to avoid moisture buildup, which can result in structural deterioration and health risks. Passive ventilation depends on natural airflow, whereas active ventilation uses mechanical systems to improve air circulation and moisture control.

The building materials for a wet facade are carefully chosen based on their resistance to moisture exposure as well as their ability to support efficient ventilation and drainage. Typical materials include fiber cement panels, ceramic tiles, or specially treated wood that can withstand the elements. These materials add to the building’s architectural character and design in addition to shielding it from the weather.

In order to keep a wet facade functioning properly, it needs to be inspected and maintained on a regular basis. To quickly detect and address any signs of deterioration or water damage, periodic inspections of ventilation openings, drainage systems, and facade materials are necessary. Homeowners can maintain the exterior beauty and functionality of their home as well as increase the lifespan of their wet facade by making appropriate maintenance investments.

What is a wet facade

The technology used to install the wet facade gave rise to its moniker.

All buildings have to comply with the current construction standards regarding heat saving. This cannot be accomplished without the use of insulation. For instance, in order to ensure the appropriate thermal conductivity, wooden walls in our nation’s middle lanes must be at least 60 centimeters thick.

Walls’ thermal resistance to heat transfer

The walls become at least 120 cm thick if they are composed of brick. Naturally, these are not used at home, and efficient heaters—typically made of foam or mineral wool—are employed to enhance heat-saving indicators.

Suggestions for selecting insulation

The facade walls’ internal and external surfaces can both be insulated. Let’s focus on the outside surfaces, which have two forms of insulation.

Ventilated facade. Between the layer of insulation and the finish, the space for ventilation is provided. To the walls the insulation is fixed with glue and dowels.

A facade with ventilation

Facade without a premises

External decorative decoration can be applied directly along the insulation; it can be thin slabs for the facade, decorative plaster, or regular plaster for painting later. Dowels and glue are used in the same manner to attach the insulation.

Dowel secured by a metal nail

Regarding the dew point, it is taken outside of the premises in every single instance. The house’s thin walls cause the rooms to cool to the point of dew. This is the only exception. These cases belong to the old Khrushchev panel.

The proper location of the dew point will be ensured by thermal insulation of the outside room.

We took extra care to define terminology because we knew that it could be accurately understood as the process of insulating facades with different technologies.

What layers are the wet facade of

Which layers make up the damp exterior of

Calling such facades the thermal insulation compositional system of insulation of the facade walls with external plaster layers would be the correct technical term. The thickness of polystyrene slabs or pressed mineral wool, which are used as heaters, is chosen based on the climate zone and the initial properties of the facade walls’ thermal conductivity. However, it usually requires ten centimeters or more. Pressed mineral wool is limited to certain types and is rarely used. The cause is inadequate physical strength indicators and partial shrinkage during operation. Which layers make up the damp façade?

1. Base – facade wall. Can be brick, wooden, from foam blocks, monolithic concrete or OSP sheets. Requirement – the surface should be even. Otherwise, between the surface of the wall and the foam slabs, air will circulate, because of this phenomenon, the effectiveness of insulation decreases several times.
2. Thermal insulation layer. Polistyle of facade brands (non -combustible). Fixed with glue and plate dowels.
3. Fiberglass. It is advisable to purchase nets resistant to alkalis.
4. Ordinary for painting or decorative plaster. It is allowed to make the finishing finishes with light facing facade slabs.

The damp facade’s pie

We want to focus on the specifications for facade plaster before delving into the technology involved in mounting a wet facade. In this instance, the quality is directly correlated with the number of years that the initial form will persist:

• The integrity of the facade;
• His novelty.

Consequently, elastic facade plasters are the best choice. Certain silicone compositions, like the latest "bark beetle" generation, are perfect. Examine the primary benefits of this facade coating.

The house with the silicone plaster facade

Flexibility. The silicone content of the composition accounts for the "bark beetle’s" flexibility and elastic nature. These coating qualities stop microscopic cracks from forming on dried plaster. This is a crucial feature since every building is exposed to the following after construction is complete:

• vibrations affecting the structure during shrinkage;
• expansion and narrowing of the materials from which the building is made, when changing temperatures.

On typical plaster, all of these conditions cause tiny, recurrent cracks to appear. This issue will be shielded from your facade by the elastic silicone composition.

The "Barky" texture of silicone plaster has a 2 mm grain.

Resistance to moisture. The Farbe plant’s bark beetle plastering’s total vapor permeability and 100% resistance to humidity are two more distinctive qualities. You can once more thank the mixture’s unusual composition for this. The completed plaster forms a barrier that ensures that water will never leak by fitting snugly against any imperfections in the covered wall.

Preservation of color over time. Silicone resins included in Farbe’s composition have the following effects:

• the surface does not burn out – protection against ultraviolet rays is provided;
• warns the effect of any other phenomena that affect the loss of brightness of the facade.

You won’t even notice if the plaster got scratched or rubbed somewhere due to mechanical exposure. There are no visible scratches or scoundrels on the entire mass of plaster, which is stabbed in color.

Colors in silicone plaster last for a very long time.

Self-purifying. The Bark beetle facing plaster is independently cleaned because of "Clean Facade" technology. This occurs at the price of the subsequent elements:

• When distributed and solidified, the elastic composition forms a smooth, whole film;
• In the presence of even slight rain, the dust settled on the facade easily washes off it without outside help.

Put differently, if you would rather "it itself" and are too indolent to notice how the house looks, you can use the Farbe plant’s "bark beetle" plaster.

Service life record. The "bark beetle" has a five-times longer service life than comparable products that are currently available on the market. If you use regular plaster, you need to update the facade coating every five years; if you have a "bark beetle," you need to do this once every twenty-five years.

Shades. The bark beetle silicon plaster that appeals to you comes in roughly 2,500 different shades, per the manufacturer’s claims. The use of computer tint and pigments from top global manufacturers is what gives this variety.

Selections for "Koroed" Farbe silicone plaster hues

Little out of pocket. Dry stucco requires facing to use a certain amount of material—roughly five kilograms per square meter. However, the Farbe plant’s product offers to use no more than 3 kilograms on the same unit area due to its high composition density and quality, which is sufficient to form the ideal coating.

The silicone plaster production that is being examined has been certified in accordance with international standards. You can dependablely protect your home’s walls by investing in silicone plaster.

Foam prices

Styrofoam

Video – how to apply silicone plaster "bark beetle"

Prices for various types of decorative bark beetle plastering

Plaster decorative bark beetle

The technology of mounting wet facade

Before insulation, the house’s wall

The facade’s upper portion

Assemble your tools and figure out how many building materials you’ll need, adding a 10% margin. The least expensive and most efficient option for a heater is to use polystyrene slabs. You will have to put up with the total impenetrability of moisture due to the lack of foam. Particularly considering that surfaces like brick or concrete hardly ever breathe.

You will need forests for facade decoration; metal is preferable. If not, construct one yourself out of lumber. Install crucial security measures on sturdy surfaces and pay attention to them. Verify the location of each level; if the building has more than two stories, vertical racks must be fastened to the facade walls using specialized metal hooks.

Vital. Restore the space between the forests and the wall after they have been installed; this space should allow you to work easily with your hands when plastering or painting the insulation layer. If not, there will be an additional time and financial loss as the forest will need to be disassembled and reinstalled.

Step 1: Examine the surfaces of the facade walls; any irregularities larger than 1 cm should be removed; any smaller ones can be fastened with glue. Don’t worry that work will become more expensive. Using glue as a leveling solution will be far more cost-effective when you factor in the time and cost of additional wall plaster.

Step 2: Whip the lower horizontal line into a strictly horizontal position using a special rope with a blue color. Should you be concerned that the initial row of polystyrene plates may slide, you will need to secure a flat wooden or metal rail further down the line. Depending on the material used in the facade wall’s construction, you can secure it with dowels or nails.

Drilling dowel holes to correct the initial profile

Dowels are used for fixation.

Unchanging profile. Eliminate any extra scissors on the metal.

Sensible guidance. When purchasing materials, keep in mind that TARELLY dowels differ for wooden, foamed, and brick walls and must match the base. Dowels can be driven into a hole that has been prepared or screwed into a tree. For wall fixation, the dowel’s length should match the thickness of the foam and glue sheet plus an additional 60 mm.

Step 3: Use a deep penetration primer to prime porous surfaces. In order to fully impregnate porous bases, apply the solution in large quantities. Make cement milk spray for walls with smooth cement or brick facades. These processes will raise the glue’s adhesion coefficient to surfaces.

Step 4: Determine the amount of the house’s corners’ deviation from the horizontal and examine the wall plane. This can be accomplished with a rope and plumb line.

1. In the corners of the house, set the plumb line over the entire height of the wall. At the top and lower, tie the rope to specially installed metal rods, stretch it well.
2. Fasten the horizontal cord to stretched ropes, do not tighten the nodes.
3. Gradually stretch the horizontal cord up along the vertical ropes and measure the distance between it and the wall.

It will be feasible to evaluate the wall’s condition thanks to these data. The deviations must be near if they are more than one centimeter.

Step 5: Prepare the adhesive mixture in accordance with the guidelines provided by the manufacturer. The sum is determined by how well you perform. Water must be added to the tank to begin the mixture’s preparation before adding the dry ingredients.

Sensible guidance. It takes time and effort to remove old paint from facade walls, so don’t rush the process. First, use the base to test the clutch’s strength. To accomplish this, make a grid of grooves in the paint that are roughly 1 × 1 cm in size, adhere the handwheel tape to the surface, and then rip it off. It would be great if the paint was still on the wall because then the facade could be insulated. Should that not be the case, you will need to remove from the wall’s surface.

Step 6: The foam’s surface needs to be covered with glue. Use a comb if the wall is smooth and the irregularities don’t go beyond 5 mm. However, this is incredibly uncommon. Most of the time, the beach method will require using a trowel or spatula to apply the solution. Up to eight lighthouses require a sheet that is up to two centimeters high around the edges and has a diameter of roughly 10 cm in the middle. Foam plates are simple to align because of their height. To keep glue from getting into the seam, apply the glue at an angle along the plate’s edges.

Put glue on the edges.

Place the solution in the sheet’s middle.

Vital. Remove any chance of air convection between the insulation and the facade wall after one or two rows; if not, natural craving will manifest and the insulation will become ineffective. Remember that it’s not just bad, but ineffective. The solution on these plates needs to be continuous in a single line with no space between them in order to remove traction.

Step 7: Apply the plate to the surface right away after spreading. Using a long wooden half or slats, press and align the foam; use a level to adjust the position.

Vital. Inexperienced builders find it difficult to control the level’s position and are prone to vertical deviation. We advise you to create a rope template on your own. After removing them to the appropriate distance from the wall, secure them. It is necessary to install ropes at a distance of two to three meters. These straightforward gadgets will continuously regulate each foam sheet’s location in relation to the facade wall’s height.

Regulating the amount of adhesive on polystyrene sheets with a laser level

Affixing insulating sheets

Two adjacent plates’ planes cannot differ in height by more than two millimeters. If deviations were discovered, the protrusions must be carefully cut off with an extremely sharp knife to make the transition invisible once the glue has cooled. It’s acceptable if there are large gaps between the plate ends; mounting foam will be used to fill them. Since it is more difficult to adjust the internal corners, it is advised that the second and subsequent rows begin at the internal corners and work their way outward.

Step 8: Fire jumpers must be made in order to strengthen a building’s resistance to fire between floors. The goal of this new law’s requirement is to make buildings more fire resistant and safe. The fire cutters are made from pressed mineral wool that is the same thickness as slabs of polystyrene. Leave a minimum of twenty centimeters of cut-off width. All around the building’s perimeter, as well as at windows and doorways, are jumpers installed.

Step 9: Decorating doorways and windows. Cut the slabs on the slopes to remove their size. Take your time, and make sure every joint is as level as possible. Although it is up to you, using mineral wool as a heater is preferable. Take the foam if the finish is somewhat massive. Thermal losses are decreased and the facade wall’s appearance is enhanced when the insulation seals the window and door frames.

Vital. The foam needs to be cut at an angle in the location where the tinted window will be installed in order to allow water to stack unhindered. Just one more thing. The slopes shouldn’t continue through the plate seams. In these locations, full slabs must be used, and the slabs must be cut to the exact size of the window. By using this technique, accidental water seeping between the foam and facade wall is eliminated. There is a 15 cm minimum acceptable gap between the seam and slopes.

The portion of the plate next to the window unit is not covered with glue. Later on, building foam is used to fill in the gap.

After the foam has cooled, carefully cut out the remaining pieces. It is advised to moisten the surfaces prior to damping, and to fill the spaces up to the thickness of the plates.

Eliminating Frozen Foam

Step 10: Use special dowels with large heads to strengthen the fixation after the glue has finished hardening. Installing them in the corners and the middle of each sheet is required. As we’ve already indicated, no technology advises installing insulating slabs without dowels, and even the priciest glue cannot provide as reliable a fix as dowels. There should be a minimum of four pieces per square meter of the plate.

Put five dowels or more into each foam sheet.

This has had its insulation completed, so you can move on to the next step.

The primary thesis statement for an article on "Wet Facades: Technology" on the website "All about the facades of the house" might be something like this: "Wet facade technology represents the ultimate in modern building exteriors, offering both aesthetic appeal and practical benefits." By directly applying a continuous layer of water-resistant material to the facade, this creative method improves weather protection and insulation while producing a sleek, seamless appearance. Through an examination of wet facade materials, application techniques, and maintenance considerations, architects and homeowners can take advantage of this innovative solution to create building exteriors that are long-lasting, energy-efficient, and aesthetically pleasing.

Plassing of insulation

A crucial procedure, the longevity of the entire decoration is dependent not only on how well the facade wall performs, but also on how well it looks. You must use a plastic grid with cells that are about 5 mm in size to strengthen the clutch and shield the foam sheets from mechanical harm. Use a long rule or rail to inspect the wall’s surface before beginning any work.

Examining the fixed plate plane

Adhere glue to the dowel heads before proceeding.

Using a spatula, drink the solution and polish as needed.

You must finish the corners first. There are metal perforated profiles used to reinforce the corners. Trim the mesh to about 30 to 40 centimeters wide. Apply glue to the corners of similarly sized buildings, cover the reinforcing mesh with it, and straighten it. Install a metal profile in the corners and submerge it once more in the solution. Rotate the exterior. The new net will be closed from above the corners as soon as the facade walls are decorated.

Bolstering the openings’ angles

The process of installing planks in the window opening

Using a spatula, bend the grid and apply glue.

Comers the adhesive on incline

Put glue on and smooth it out.

Assemble the corners around each opening’s perimeter.

Step 1: Using a wide spatula or a flat metal grater, apply a layer of solution to the slabs that is about 2-3 mm thick, and then align it right away. It adheres well to the foam’s surface, so there’s really no need to try too hard. It is easier to lay down fiberglass from top to bottom, making sure to overlap by at least ten centimeters.

Gluing foam with adhesive

Vital. Only frank hacks apply the net to the dry wall before soaking it with glue. The truth is that this decorating technique severely weakens the adhesive materials, so plaster cracks will inevitably develop over time. Keep an eye out for pre-built homes, as many of them have this disadvantage—the results of the labor of dishonest owners.

The grid’s second canvas

Gluing the second canvas together

Step 2: Align the grid’s surface thoroughly, making sure all of the fibers are covered in glue. Using a long rail, check the wall’s plane and smooth out any bumps. To accomplish this, firmly fasten a level rail to the wall and take right away. The areas that require equalization will be visible after printing the trace.

The surface ought to be as level as feasible.

Step 3: The second layer of plaster, which should be applied if painting the facade, should have a thickness of two to three millimeters. Maximum wall alignment is the primary requirement. The technology is the same, so if any residue is left behind after using the spatula, don’t give up; a regular cheese grater can be used to carefully remove it. You can apply decorative plaster in accordance with the first layer if that is your preferred finish. This also holds true for adhering thin facade plates.

Preparing decorative plaster with primer

Decorative plaster application

Definition:	A wet facade refers to a type of facade system where the insulation material is placed on the outer side of the load-bearing structure, often with a plaster layer on top.
Technology:	This method involves creating a protective layer against moisture using materials like mineral wool or foam boards, followed by applying a finishing coat for aesthetics and weather resistance.

Anyone thinking about using wet facades for their home needs to understand the technology involved. Making a space between the cladding material and the outside wall of the building is the process of creating a wet facade, also referred to as a ventilated facade. Air can flow through this opening, improving insulation and preventing moisture buildup.

Insulation panels, a supporting structure, and the cladding material itself are the main parts of a wet facade system. Insulation panels offer thermal efficiency and temperature stability. They are commonly constructed from materials like expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. The supporting structure, which is usually composed of wood or metal, keeps everything in place while enabling the required air space.

Enhancing energy efficiency is one of a wet facade’s primary benefits. It helps maintain a pleasant indoor climate while cutting down on heating and cooling expenses by reducing heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. Furthermore, the air gap serves as a barrier against the infiltration of moisture, helping to avoid problems like mold and dampness within the walls.

Wet facade installation calls for meticulous preparation and specialized knowledge. To keep the facade effective, gaps around windows, doors, and other openings must be properly sealed. To guarantee the system stays intact and keeps functioning at its best over time, routine maintenance and inspections are also advised.

Overall, a wet facade is a compelling option for modern buildings due to its long-term advantages in energy savings, durability, and indoor comfort, even though the initial investment may be higher than with traditional methods. Wet facades are developing as a result of technological advancements, providing even more effective and environmentally friendly ways to improve the appearance and functionality of both commercial and residential buildings.

Video on the topic

Gluing the insulation per facade. How to apply glue correctly, why it is impossible to apply glue with a comb?

How to make a wet facade, facades plaster

System (wet facade), which was able to do in 10 days.

SFTK wet facade, technology of the basic reinforcing layer of glue and facade fiberglass grid

How to make the right slopes in the wet facade system.