Practical Guide to Insulation of a House from Gas Suspit blocks from the outside

Welcome to "All about the Facades of the House," where we’ll be discussing useful hints and counsel for beautifying and safeguarding the outside of your house. We cover all the important details of using gas concrete blocks to insulate your home from the outside in this guide. Using this method will increase your home’s durability and aesthetic appeal in addition to increasing its thermal efficiency.

One smart way to get better thermal performance is to insulate a home from the outside using gas concrete blocks, or autoclaved aerated concrete, or AAC. Gas concrete blocks are strong and lightweight, which makes them perfect for insulation and structural support. Applying insulation to the exterior of a building minimizes heat loss and lowers energy usage by creating a continuous thermal barrier.

The superior thermal insulation qualities of gas concrete blocks make them a great choice for external insulation. These blocks effectively trap heat inside during cold weather and keep the interior cool during hot weather because of their low thermal conductivity. The year-round comfort of interior spaces is greatly enhanced by AAC blocks because they stop thermal bridging, the process by which heat escapes through walls.

It is important to know how gas concrete blocks are installed when thinking about using them for external insulation. AAC blocks are usually directly attached to the exterior wall surface through the use of adhesive mortar or mechanical fasteners during the insulation process. This technique strengthens the building envelope’s structural integrity in addition to adding an insulation layer.

Additionally, using gas concrete blocks for insulation improves the facade’s resilience to weather and durability. These blocks have a natural resistance to mold, moisture, and pests, which guarantees their longevity and low maintenance needs. AAC blocks can be used as exterior insulation to help homeowners achieve structural robustness and energy efficiency.

Finally, adding gas concrete blocks to the exterior of your home provides a workable way to insulate it, strengthen its structural integrity, and improve the appearance of its facade. For additional information and advice on turning your home into a cozy and environmentally friendly living area, keep an eye on "All about the Facades of the House."

Materials for thermal insulation of gas silicate

The most common materials offered for outdoor insulation are mineral wool mats or plates, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam in plates, or foamy. It is important to compare the gas silicate and the designated heater’s technical specifications in order to make the best decision. Vapor permeability, or the capacity to let out water vapors, is one of the advantages of gas silicate. The insulation’s vapor permeability must match or exceed that of the masonry blocks in order to maintain this characteristic. The vapor permeability in mg/m · h · pa is compared.

• gas -sized – 0.14 – 0.23;
• Plates and mats from mineral wool – 0.3 – 0.6;
• polystyrene – 0.013 – 0.05;
• polyurethane foam – 0.0 – 0.05.

Comparing, we find that only in mineral wool is vapor permeability greater than gas slander. This does not preclude the use of other heat insulators from the gas block; rather, it simply means that in this scenario, an obligatory ventilation system will need to be installed, resulting in extra expenses.

Two common methods of thermal insulation from the outside

The plaster system, also known as the "wet method," and the ventilated facade, which is a dry method of insulation, are the two methods of insulation that builders most frequently offer.

Wet facade

• external wall;
• insulation;
• adhesive mixture with a dull reinforcing alkali plastic grid;
• Facade finish.

Since the method does not require a frame device or highly qualified contractors, it is good for independent execution. However, this type of insulation can only be installed in positive air temperatures.

Ventilated facade

Professionals view ventilated facades as more dependable because they offer greater decorating options for homes. The following is the insulation scheme:

• external wall;
• carrier frame;
• insulation;
• windbreaker membrane;
• ventilated gap of at least 40 mm;
• hinged facade.

In order to apply thermal insulation using this technique, the facade will need to be precisely recharged, meaning that any irregularities must be built into the frame.

More options for external decoration are provided by the ventilated facade. The work can be done in extremely cold weather—down to minus 7 °C—but it does require the performer to be proficient with a construction tool.

The choice of the thermal insulation system, the better to warm gas storage?

With one small exception—if the house is constructed of premium, certified blocks—both techniques are appropriate for insulating a home against gas silicate blocks.

When low-quality artisanal materials with low mechanical strength are used, the gas storage will simply collapse when dowel screws are used to secure the supporting frame to the wall.

Thermal insulation of mineral wool

A wet method with a density of at least 150 kg/m3 is used for thermal insulation of gas soda walls. The external enclosing structures’ heat engineering calculation is used to determine the thickness of the heat insulator. In the Moscow region, a 400 mm thick wall must have an 80 mm mineral wool slab layer applied to it for insulation.

Materials needed for the task are:

• adhesive composition of dry building mixtures (CCC);
• The basement bar with the width of the shelf, equal to the thickness of the layer of the mineral wool slab, around the perimeter of the house;
• insulation – basalt slabs;
• An alkali plastic grid along the area of ​​the facades plus an additional layer to a height of 2 m;
• protective corner nets or an additional amount of mesh per width of 600 mm in height of each angle of walls;
• plastic corners to protect the internal angles of openings;
• plaster composition and vapor -permeable acrylic paint for finishing;
• dowel screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head (fungi) at the rate of 5-6 pcs./m2.

Be aware that the dowel-screw length is chosen by subtracting 120 mm from the consolidation calculation in masonry. The gas-sosseilic blocks will be destroyed as a result of the use of dowel-gvo.

Insulation is done in multiple steps:

1. Preparation of the base – the walls are cleaned of dust, dirt, stains of oils or solvent, excess solution.
2. Installation of a basement bar for supporting the lower plate and protecting the insulation from rodents. The bar is fixed so that the shelf is 2 cm below the junction of the wall and the foundation.
3. On the back of the insulation slab around the perimeter with an indent of 1.5 … 2 cm from the edge and 2 … 3 stamps in the center, the adhesive composition from the CSC is applied. The adhesive should not get to the end of the insulation – this forms the bridge of the cold. The plate is installed in place in the left lower corner of the facade. The operation is repeated over the entire surface of the walls, from the bottom up, placing vertical seams between the boards of 300 mm.
4. Striped strips of the heat insulator on the ends of the openings of windows and doors.
5. A day later, the boots are dowel, placing dowel-screws in the corners and in the center of each plate, the scurrying of the dowel head with the surface of the insulation. Cut the allowances in the corners, the seams with a width of more than 3 mm between the plates are filled with trunks of insulation.
6. Glue a protective mesh – an adhesive composition of 3-4 mm is applied to the surface of the basalt plate, a piece of mesh is applied and a spatula is heated into the adhesive composition. Special corner elements of the grid or an additional layer of protective grid are glued in the corners of the house. Puits of mesh 5×10 cm strengthen all facade angles of the openings, glue special plastic corners to the internal angles of the openings. An additional layer of protective net is glued to a height of 2 m.
7. After the adhesive has completely dried for 97 days or according to the manufacturer"s instructions, the surface is primed with adhesive primer, and the finish is performed.

Thermal insulation of polystyrene foam

Materials for polystyrene foam insulation of walls will be required based on the ventilation system:

• glue from the CSC;
• insulation – extruded polystyrene foam;
• dowel-screw;
• basement bar;
• lumber for the device of the supporting frame and the counterparty;
• superdiffusion membrane;
• Material for the hinged facade – siding, planking, lining.

Choose the direction of the decorative material planks before beginning any work; the supporting frame will run perpendicular to the direction of the cladding planks. Drawing a facade and marking the location of the crate on it will make the work easier. The strips are attached in the corners and on the faces of the window and door openings at a distance of 600–5 mm.

Note: the width of the basement bar should match the thickness of the insulation layer to prevent rodents from gaining access and creating nests in the polystyrene foam.

Working in phases:

1. Preparation of the facade – similarly to a wet method.
2. Installation of the basement.
3. Formation of the crate of the crate on dowel wings.
4. Installation of polystyrene foam plates for glue.
5. After a day – dowel.
6. Installation of the superdiffusion membrane – the panels are overlapped 10 … 15 cm on a vapor permeable bilateral tape.
7. The device of the controller from the beam with a cross section of 40×40 mm.
8. Installation of a hinged facade.

Thermal insulation of thermal panels

The structural (supporting) layer, an insulating layer (made of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or polyurethane foam), and a finishing layer of ceramic or other facing tiles make up thermal panels, which are composite materials.

The heavy weight of the panels necessitates the implementation of a supporting frame made of metal profiles, but using this material speeds up the process and is not affected by seasonal constraints.

The most common method for fastening drywall is with galvanized roofing steel profiles. You’ll need the following to perform thermal insulation:

• drill;
• dowel-screw;
• insulation;
• metallic profile;
• The basement bar.

The ventilation system’s technology is repeated in the work algorithm, but the frame is made of metal rather than a beam:

1. Prepare a facade surface.
2. Mount the base bar.
3. Build a supporting frame from suspensions and profiles fixed to them.
4. Mount insulation on glue, fix it with dowels in a day.
5. Mount thermal panels.

Find the most comprehensive how-to manual for insulating your house externally with Gas Suspit blocks. This post discusses how to use Gas Suspit blocks to insulate your home efficiently, with an emphasis on application simplicity and long-term usefulness.

Internal thermal insulation of the house

Although gas soster walls can be insulated with the interior of the house, doing so will take up 10 cm of usable space along each wall. In order to restore the microclimate, forced ventilation will then be necessary.

Mineral wool or polystyrene foam slabs work well as heat insulators and can be used both wet and dry. The cladding is finished with OSP, chipboard, or drywall.

Step 1: Prepare the Surface	Clear the Gas Suspit block surface of dirt and debris. Repair any cracks or damage.
Step 2: Apply Primer	Apply a suitable primer to enhance adhesion of insulation materials to the Gas Suspit blocks.
Step 3: Install Insulation	Fix insulation boards or panels onto the prepared surface using adhesive designed for exterior insulation.
Step 4: Seal Joints	Seal joints between insulation boards with special tape or sealant to prevent heat loss.
Step 5: Apply Reinforcing Mesh	Apply a reinforcing mesh over the insulation and embed it in a base coat of adhesive.
Step 6: Apply Base Coat	Apply a base coat of adhesive or mortar over the mesh to secure it and provide a smooth surface.
Step 7: Finish with Top Coat	Finish with a decorative top coat or render to protect the insulation and enhance the facade"s appearance.

Insulating your home from the exterior with Gas Suspit blocks has major advantages for both structural durability and energy efficiency. You can lower your energy expenses and improve the comfort of your living area by taking a few simple steps.

First things first, preparation is key. Make sure there are no debris or dirt marks on the Gas Suspit blocks’ surface. To improve the adherence of insulating materials, any loose materials or coatings that may be present should be removed.

Next, pick out insulation materials that are appropriate for outdoor use. Materials with good heat performance and moisture resistance, such as mineral wool or foam boards made of extruded polystyrene (XPS), are frequently used. Select building materials that adhere to regional climate regulations and building codes.

Consider sealing and detailing when applying insulation. To stop heat bridging and air leaks, properly seal windows, doors, corners, and joints. This guarantees the insulation’s long-term integrity and optimal performance.

Finally, think about your facade’s protective and esthetic features. You have the option of finishing the insulated surface with render, brick slips, or decorative panels, depending on your preference. These not only improve the aesthetics of your house but also give you more defense against the elements.

These tips will help you insulate your home against Gas Suspit blocks from the outside, increasing energy efficiency and making your home a more comfortable place to live for many years to come.

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