Planquin begged

The term "planquin begged," which comes from French architecture, describes a decorative element that is frequently seen on building facades. It is made up of a projecting molding or ledge that has both decorative and practical uses. This architectural element gives the facade depth and personality and is usually placed beneath a window or along a building’s edge.

A Planquin begged’s main purpose is to create shadow relief, which improves the building’s aesthetic appeal by introducing delicate contrasts between light and shadow. This effect enhances the facade’s aesthetic appeal and adds to the building’s overall architectural coherence. Planquin beggeds vary in size and design according to the architectural style and period, from simple geometric forms to complex patterns.

Planquin begs were historically widely used to adorn the facades of opulent mansions and buildings during the French Renaissance and Baroque periods. Their enduring appeal extended to other European architectural forms, impacting the ornamental elements of structures from various eras and locales.

The historical significance and contemporary facade design applications of Planquin’s technique are examined in the article "Planquin begged." Planquin begged, which has its roots in traditional European architecture, is a decorative plaster or stucco pattern created on external walls. This technique not only makes buildings more aesthetically pleasing, but it also gives otherwise flat surfaces some texture and depth. Planquin begged is still used today by designers and architects to bring back historical themes or experiment with new patterns, giving building facades an enduring charm. This article explores the history of the method, its creative inspirations, and useful hints for incorporating Planquin begged into contemporary architectural designs.

What is plank

Our goal is to provide our website visitors with expert advice; none of our articles promote manufacturers; instead, the operational properties of the materials are our sole focus. What then is planken?

This is a standard board with chamfered corners and four rigid sides constructed of different types of wood. Considering the technological features of the manufacturers, the thickness is roughly 20–24 mm and the length is 2 m and beyond. Based on the geometry, three types are released:

Straight. The angle between the edge and the placement is 90 °. It is not recommended to use houses for houses for several reasons. Firstly, a wooden crate is visible in a small gap between individual boards. Secondly, rainwater penetrates through horizontal cracks without any problems, wooden structures become wet, as a result-rapid decay. And this is at best. This planken is recommended to be used for the manufacture of various decorative fences, furniture elements, etc. D.

Straight plank

Cowardly plank

Cleem plank

It is now necessary for you to briefly discuss the cost of the "new" material. Why do we utilize quotations? Because builders have known about this strict board for many hundreds of years, it was renamed Planquin, and its goal is to distribute new building materials. Consider the price of a European lining and larch plank as a point of comparison. Other wood species maintain the same price distributions.

Pilomaterial variety	EVERTHOUSE OF LUCK	Planquin from larch
Extra	860 rub./m2	1300 rub./m2

Another moment. For the manufacture of planken, only a four -sided fugitive machine with straight cutters is needed. Direct cutters are simply made, for sharpening it is not enough time to expose flat mills are much easier than with a complex profile used during the manufacture of the lining. In addition, electricity losses are significantly reduced due to the fact that less than wood is removed. As a result, the actual cost of manufacturing planken is much cheaper than lining. How to explain the high cost? There are two reasons. The first is the misunderstanding by the inexperienced developers of production technology and the mechanism of price formation. The second – a successful advertising campaign. Both reasons ultimately force developers to buy material with fairly low operational indicators at a very high price.

Pricen prices

Plank

Where the sloping plank is used

The natural wood of different species used to make the beveled planken is entirely safe. It is true that the surface is impregnated and covered with unique compounds, varnishes, and colors to enhance its appearance and protect it from putrefactive processes. Using paints is not advised as it removes the lovely natural tree pattern. Planquin is useful for:

External casing of brick, concrete and wooden facade walls. The sheathing is done both on new buildings and during major repairs or reconstruction. Due to the new type of facade, you can completely change the appearance of the house, the old structure acquires a modern look. For planking, there is no need to restore the supporting characteristics of the foundations – the cost of work is significantly seduced.

Planquin covering

Internal wall lorcation using planks

An illustration of how planken is used to make furniture

Planquin fencing

Pricen prices for fence

Planquin for the fence

We advise applying the overflow method for direct, wedge-shaped, or mowed plank with metal element fastening when lining facade walls. The braid planking profile’s characteristics prevent moisture from entering the structure and hide the locations where the boards are fastened to the carrier. How are walls sheathed?

Pricen Planquin Prices

Planquin begged

Step -by -step instructions for the facade cladding planken

Take an old wooden log house, for instance, and demonstrate how to sheathe the walls of its facade using beveled planks. Fixing technology has unique properties associated with the particular needs of the lining. Fasteners are made of steel galvanized profiles. Elements can be "wave" or "snake," with one being long and the other two being short. The long "wave" is fastened across Planquin’s width on the same board, second from the right, on the left side of the vertical load-bearing rack’s center. On each board, the second iteration of the "snake" features short elements that are fixed at a displacement of two.

There are no significant technological differences; as an illustration, let’s look at the "Wave" fasteners. You will need a pencil, square, ruler, secret screws that are 2 and 4 cm long, and a drill with an extension cord if you plan to install it. Specialized plastic devices installed in the factory can regulate the amount of space between individual boards. If not, cut a strip of plastic that is 3–4 cm long, up to 1 cm wide, and 2-3 mm thick.

Prices for the battery drill-shuruvret

Battery Drill-Shuruvret

After roughly 1.5 to 2 meters of the board, they must be used. Arrange all the equipment and make room throughout the house. Create a small table to make the task easier. Place the screws into the boards on it.

Step 1: Determine the size of the facade walls and budget for materials accordingly. Acquire screws and metal fastening components simultaneously. The reason for the required 0.5–0.6 m spacing between the boards is explained in the article below. The number of rails and fasteners should be determined by accounting for the distance.

Sensible guidance. Avoid joining the segments in a single vertical line if you are unable to find a plank that is the same length as the building’s walls. This will look very unattractive. Create joints through a single board at opposing locations. When you fix wooden racks, take this moment into consideration and make more of them.

Docking of Planquin in a vertical line

Step 2: Examine the facade wall’s surface and mark where the vertical racks are located. Remove any large protrusions or recesses using any method at your disposal.

Step 3: Attach the wall rails. The lumber is about 2 cm thick and 4-5 cm wide; please do not take it further. The rake may break because the fasteners will be positioned on both sides of the center, which is too narrow.

The racks are fastened to the wall.

Step 4: Attach two rails to the wall at each end, spaced no more than 10 cm from the corner. You also need rails at the same distance from each window and door opening. Make sure the position is vertical by using a precise level or plumb line. If the rails are loosely installed on the wall, use different board segments as linings. It is advisable to soak the rails with any antiseptic if the boards are installed on a brick wall. It is not necessary to impregnate wooden buildings.

We apply an antiseptic to the boards.

Incredibly significant. All other rails should be positioned in line with the lower ends of the rails, which should be strictly on one horizontal. In actuality, squares are used to secure the lower edge of the first row of planks to the rail ends. This location will be closed in the future to make way for the basement’s finishing materials.

Step 5: Pull the rope in between the extreme rails. Adjust the distance between it and the wall where the rails are fastened, and shake them if needed. Put in place every last rail. Regulating the position of the rails makes controlling perforated elements much simpler. Mounting holes are used to adjust the position of the rails, which are fixed to the wall.

We mend the remaining rails.

Sensible guidance. Some articles offer suggestions for mounting steam and hydraulic protection on walls. We view this as an additional time and financial waste. Wooden materials "breathe" so well, and the facade walls’ outer lining shields the structure from direct sunlight. Beveled planking featuring faces fills in technological gaps; it can even withstand multidirectional water spray, not just raindrops.

Now that the preliminary work has been finished, you can install a mowing planken directly. Keep in mind that the boards should only be fastened horizontally to prevent moisture from getting into the space. Take into account the unique nuances of installation technology while working. In order for the upper board to close the lower, bevels must be added.

Installation of a bracked plank

Responsible manufacturers treat wood with antiseptics, if the boards are ordinary – soak them yourself. End joints must be processed with special impregnation, there are a large selection in the store. The sheathing should only be done in good weather. If the material is not used immediately – store it on covered areas. Make the finish coating with high -quality varnish for external work, the number of layers of at least two. During the choice of the length of the boards, try to ensure that there are no more than three pieces in one row, up to 15% can go to trim. Remember this during the calculation of the cost of materials for the lining of the facade. Fixation of the strips is carried out using the hidden mount “duet”, metal elements are screwed with self -tapping screws with hidden heads.

One 4 × 40 mm screw is placed on a vertical rail, and two 4 × 25 mm screws are fastened to the board. Remember that the boards should be docked correctly in a run-through row.

The first step is to locate the planken’s first row. Position a board against the wall and mark the upper edge of each vertical rail with a horizontal line. Utilize a laser or a water level to verify the location. Control it carefully; it needs to be perfectly horizontal.

Identify the first row’s location.

Step 2: Fasten the beginning rail or bar from the line; choose the screws by considering their thickness. Following the removal of the starting rack, the first row of planken will be noted in its stead. One fastener element is positioned between the vertical supports and the starting rail to provide a technological clearance. It will require it when the planken is installed.

We make the first row right.

3. Begin attaching the second row of casing with nails. There are two ways to take sizes out. Initially, fold multiple rows of boards and mark the center of the vertical rails with vertical lines. Because there is a significant chance of error, we do not recommend utilizing this method. The second person, in turn, should lean against the wall and mark the center of each vertical rack with a pencil. Next, draw a line on the square’s reverse. It will have metal fixation components fixed to it.

Step 4: Dip the board end joints at a 90° angle and the corner at a 45° angle. Make sure you impregnate the final surfaces. Take great care to ensure that any leftovers do not land on the boards’ front surface, as the varnish can catch the impregnation. Instead of using a brush, use a washcloth to reduce the risk. Press it gently to the intersection; this removes the appearance.

Sheathing boards should be cut to the required size.

Step 5: Attach the fasteners to the board’s back. Place one on the left and the other to the right of the vertical rail’s center line.

Step 6. Install a lining board on the facade. To do this, put the lower part of the “duet” behind the installation block in the gap between it and the rail, and attach the upper part to the rail with a screw 20 × 40mm. In the same way, fasten the third row of boards. Between the boards, insert plastic devices to adjust the size of the gap. A gap is necessary, it will eliminate the appearance of loads during the expansion of the boards. As soon as planken is completely fixed, take out the devices and use them when installing the next board. From time to time, control the position of the horizontal casing. If deviations were found, then gradually correct them. During the leveling, shift the boards by no more than a millimeter, otherwise the non -parallel joints will become noticeable.

Sensible guidance. We advise applying multiple marks to vertical load-bearing rails throughout the house’s height to level in order to simplify the control procedure.

Step 7: Take out the installation bar and start repairing the first set of plankens, which are lower. Screw the second row’s released bottom metallic fastener section onto the vertical rail. Mark the board with tags, attaching only the upper portions of the "duet" to it. Secure the metal square in the rail’s center at the bottom. The board’s plane and the square’s plane must line up.

A square and screw fasteners to the bar

Step 8: Place the first row in position, move the upper fastener under the second board, and fasten the lower edge to the rail ends by passing it through the corner.

Attach the first row board.

Proceed with the facade lining in accordance with the given algorithm. Create the finish coating once the work is completed. As you can see, working, labeling each board, tightening the fasteners, and attaching them to the vertical rail will take a lot of time. This results in longer work hours as well as higher costs.

Fastening planken with nails

Using two ornamental nails, each board is fastened using a less complex technique. It’s true that different designers have differing views on whether or not this method is wise to use. While some advocate for a facade that has vertical rows of nail heads running the full height of the facade wall, others disagree. No designer will reside in this house; you must determine which approach is best for you. You create it for yourself and limit your actions to what you find enjoyable.

Planken fastened with nails

Planquin"s mount is mounted

Only the upper portion of the boards are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws; the lower portion of the subsequent row closes the previous row’s hats. A wedge-shaped or straight plank is created in this manner. Benefits: Sheathing is redirected, and you can easily switch out the boards if needed. Cons: There is an increase in the use of pricey materials. The floor’s width affects the consumption, which rises by 10% to 15%. Unambiguous evaluations are not available for design indicators.

The mount of Planquin is mounted.

How to dismantle a mowed plank

Another myth from the manufacturers is that replacing the planking board can be done "easily and simply" if needed. It is actually far more difficult to do the opposite than to alter the skin’s lining. The option of installing planken with nails is not taken into consideration because it significantly degrades the appearance of the walls and is not appropriate for facades. The exterior walls are covered with metal add-ons, but replacing the boards with new fasteners is a challenging task when the boards are disassembled. How is it carried out?

Step 1: Use a hammer to tap the entire length of the board that needs to be replaced. The vertical rails can be located by listening for changes in sound; note their location right away and mark it with a pencil or chalk.

Step 2: Tie the board’s edge gradually, about 10 cm long, with an acute chisel and chisel so that the rail sits in the center of the hole. opening width to within three centimeters. Perform this operation at each location where Planquin’s upper section is fixed to the vertical rails that support it.

Step 3: Insert a thin metal disk into a small grinder. Cut the mount’s metal components gently. If the board is a standard plank, pull it over. The lower fixation elements will bend, lift the board, and remove them from the seat during this process. If the plank is beveled, you will need to use a grinder to saw off the lower metal fastening because the oblique edges will prevent you from bending it on yourself.

It will be necessary to attach the new board using regular carnations, bite off their hats, and carefully beg into the board and rail with a tiny punch. To stop corrosion processes in the future, it is advised to apply putty or varnish to the cloves. The leaky lining is much simpler to replace, and it can be compromised by cloves jammed into a spike. Remove the previous one and put in a new one for a few minutes.

Changing the lining’s leap binding

Practical advice

It is advised that the vertical rail spacing be shortened during the facade walls’ skin. Standard spacing is 70–80 cm; we recommend installing them after 50–60 cm. Why? Compare the plank and lining once more. Because the individual boards of the lines are connected in a spike-puzzle, the position is fixed along the whole length. The planken manufacturers may tell you stories about how the lining in these areas cracks due to deformation, but don’t believe them. Conversely, this fastening technique ensures that the aircraft will be preserved in any operating environment.

Planquin’s boards are unrelated to one another; the technology enables mounting slots to be present and allows for individual board attachment, but only on vertical supporting rails. Similar to any wood, planking can become deformed in response to variations in humidity, situations where a single board stays level, and propellers that are bent next to each other. In order to minimize the deformation and make it less noticeable, the spacing between the fixation sites must be shortened. Naturally, taking such preventive measures raises the cost of upholstery and lengthens the time needed to complete construction projects.

Make sure to adhere to the amazing natural ventilation if your bath is made of planks. Keep the perfume at the top at the rafter system and do not tightly close the lower edge of the first row.

Take your time choosing the best way to decorate the facade walls; consider your goals, available options, and the benefits and drawbacks of different building materials.

Prepared outcome of the planked finish

For external facades, planquin begged is a multipurpose material that provides a special combination of toughness and visual appeal. Both architects and homeowners like it because of its unique texture and color options.

The resilience of Planquin begged to adverse weather, such as wind, rain, and sun exposure, is one of its most notable qualities. Because of its longevity, the facade will always be beautiful and intact with little upkeep needed.

Beyond its usefulness, Planquin begged improves a building’s aesthetic appeal. Its textured surface gives facades depth and personality, whether it is used in traditional or contemporary designs. This timeless aesthetic goes well with a variety of architectural styles.

It’s important to look at the variety of colors and finishes available if you’re thinking about using Planquin begged for the outside of your house. As a result, homeowners can customize their facade to fit their aesthetic and blend in with the neighborhood.

Video on the topic

Installation of a bracket on the facade of the house. Spectacular color!!!

Planquin begged. No secrets :)) Do not suffer a garbage with your snakes

Installation of planking mowed from larch to facade

Which plank is better: straight or beveled?