Are you considering adding a little bit of natural charm to the exterior of your house? Installing a wood-framed, hinged facade might be the perfect answer for you. This timeless yet adaptable option improves the visual appeal of your house while also providing benefits for insulation and durability.
Precise planning and execution are essential when installing a wooden hinged facade. Wood, in contrast to other materials, needs to be handled carefully to ensure durability and functionality. In addition to adding to the facade’s beauty, proper installation shields it from the elements and ages with use.
Selecting the appropriate wood type for your facade is essential before beginning the installation process. Choose sturdy, weather-resistant woods like redwood or cedar, which can tolerate moisture and insect repellent on their own. For the wood to last longer and require less maintenance, it should be treated or naturally resistant to decay.
The foundation must be ready before installing a hinged wooden facade. Make sure the wall’s surface is clear of debris, dry, and clean. Insulation and weather-resistant barriers should be properly fastened to prevent moisture intrusion and increase energy efficiency.
The wooden panels should then be meticulously measured and cut to fit precisely onto the prepared structure. Use rust- and corrosion-resistant fasteners that are suitable for each panel, making sure they pierce the structural supports firmly without sacrificing the integrity of the wood.
After the panels are installed, give the wood a protective coat or stain to bring out its inherent beauty and give it more defense against weathering and UV rays. Over time, regular maintenance will help maintain the facade’s structural integrity and appearance. This includes cleaning and reapplying finishes as needed.
- Proper care – the key to the durability of the facade made of wood
- Classification of facade structures
- The device of the ventilated facade system of timber houses
- Classification of facade structures
- Materials for construction and finishes
- How to make a ventilated facade correctly
- Errors of independent installation of the ventilated facade
- How to mount with your own hands: installation technology
- Preparatory work
- Manufacturing and installation of a frame/crate for lining
- Laying heat and waterproofing
- Installation of a ventilated facade system
- Calculation of the thickness of the layer
- Manufacturers and prices
- Installation
- Recommendations for the construction of the facade
- Remember!
- Video system about the installation work on the ventilated facade
- Design features of the main nodes
- Bracket mount to the carrier wall
- Fastening guide strips to brackets
- Window and door slopes
- Buildings of the building, base and parapet
- Fire cutting off
- Video on the topic
- The facade is simply and for a long time of the installation❗️ #lofthausSpb
- How to mount a plank on a facade!
- Hinged ventilated facade: installation of insulation subsystems and cladding
Proper care – the key to the durability of the facade made of wood
Once the wooden facade is installed, several care procedures must be carried out because it is vulnerable to the effects of sunlight, high humidity, and other atmospheric phenomena. Oil paint was previously used for this, covering the wood every one to two years. But after a few layers, a noble tree began to resemble plastic.
The availability of paints and varnishes in the modern market makes wood care more dependable while preserving its original appearance. The two best methods for achieving this are as follows:
- The use of facade varnish. When applying varnish to a tree, a protective layer is formed, which favorably emphasizes the appearance of wood. It is applied quite easily, and therefore the procedure can be carried out without involving masters.
- Azure coating. Such a coating can protect wood for a period of 3-7 years, depending on which components are part of it. At the same time, the azure is able to preserve the wood texture, favorably emphasizing its beauty with a variety of tinted colors.
Even after many years, the wooden facades maintain their top spots. This is because of their unmatched benefits over alternative solutions. In addition, the market for materials is constantly expanding and getting restocked with new finishes made from this organic raw material.
Classification of facade structures
There are two varieties of high-quality ventilated facades for wooden cottages and beam houses:
Complete system that makes use of insulation. The most popular style for wooden homes with a 150 mm-thick wood section.
It is in demand in areas with harsh climates and budget structures because it enables you to save energy resources. The system stands out due to its impressive chatter structure and layers.
The light version is identical; it does not include insulation. It is ideal for homes made of secondary raw materials because the facade can conceal unsightliness, and it is also ideal for areas with warm weather and frequent downpours because it can combat humidity. Faceted facade material directly on wooden areas with a thin frame.
Any device on the timber house’s ventilated facade can be installed independently, provided it complies with all building regulations. More on the materials used for the facade.
The device of the ventilated facade system of timber houses
The primary purpose of the ventilated facade on the house’s wooden surfaces is to preserve the building materials—which are adversely affected by moisture—and produce a visually appealing appearance. Furthermore, the facade systems offer the extra insulation that the timber walls demand. Regarding the arrangement of structures and their apparatus below.
Classification of facade structures
There are two varieties of high-quality ventilated facades for wooden cottages and beam houses:
Complete system that makes use of insulation. The most popular style for wooden homes with a 150 mm-thick wood section.
It is in demand in areas with harsh climates and budget structures because it enables you to save energy resources. The system stands out due to its impressive chatter structure and layers.
The light version is identical; it does not include insulation. It is ideal for homes made of secondary raw materials because the facade can conceal unsightliness, and it is also ideal for areas with warm weather and frequent downpours because it can combat humidity. Faceted facade material directly on wooden areas with a thin frame.
Any device on the timber house’s ventilated facade can be installed independently, provided it complies with all building regulations. More on the materials used for the facade.
Materials for construction and finishes
This is because moisture is always harmful to wood, and condensate forms as a result of the materials’ different temperatures. The following requirements should be met by the wood used for the crate:
- Form section of at least 50 mm. The width is calculated from the thickness of the insulation + 20 mm.
- Wooden bars should not have defects. Firstly, a responsible mission is superimposed on them-they will carry a heavy cladding, and secondly, the overborn that has begun will easily switch to clean elements and the life of the facade will be reduced.
- All materials must undergo processing with all kinds of protection – from humidity, parasites and fire.
How to make a ventilated facade correctly
A number of adjustments related to the preservation of the object’s building material must be made before the wooden house’s walls are embellished to the owners’ preferences. That is to say, excellent processing with various forms of protection should be applied to the walls beneath the facade; this work cannot be done at a later date. If this is left unattended, the undetected corruption processes will worsen and crown replacement will become imperative. Additionally:
The crate’s apparatus. There is only one orientation for the beam that uses the building level: either vertically or horizontally packed on the walls.
This rule remains unchangeable, despite the fact that facade systems vary based on the kind of structure. Ventilation will only be monitored in this manner.
The installation step of wooden guides depends on the width of the heater used, or 50-60 cm, if the design does not involve it. Cotton mats or styrene slabs should lie in sectors without movement and excess fixation. Waterproofing creeps on top of the heater laid. In this capacity is rubber, PVC films, roofing material or other material, in diversity proposed by the industry. If the crate in advance was not satisfied with the necessary parameters-the width of the bar is 70-80 cm, then the counter is packed on top of the waterproofing. It is easy to do this – wood contours protrude under a layer of film or rubber, and it will be easy to fix the next layer.
Finally, the ornamental material is attached. Many owners use a natural lining, a block house, or an imitation of a beam in order to protect the ecology.
It is important to remember, though, that all wood species intended for ventilated facades need to go through a rigorous impregnation process in order to prevent damage from occurring too soon.
Errors of independent installation of the ventilated facade
Home masters frequently make mistakes when building each layer of the future facade on their own. Below is a description of the most prevalent ones:
Placing crosses on a counter and in a wooden crate. The structure’s essential components are reduced to an adequate number of air channels that allow air masses to pass through and help with insulation and wall ventilation. This cannot be accomplished in the presence of transverse bars. Heavy fiber cement panels cannot be hung on a wooden crate; extra metal brackets will need to be installed if they are to be used as cladding. She has the power to ruin her. Generally speaking, the selection of decorative raw materials needs to be made in consideration of the building material.
How to mount with your own hands: installation technology
The installation of the ventilated facade systems should be done on the wall’s previously prepared surface, just like with measures for carrying out regular facade work.
Facade finish installation technology generally uses the following technologies:
- Preparation of the surface of the walls.
- Manufacturing and installing the frame for facing.
- Laying the heat -insulating layer with waterproofing.
- Installation of facade panels.
Take a closer look at the installation phases.
Preparatory work
The walls’ surface needs to be prepared at this point. Any remnants of the previous finish should be removed, cracks, potholes, and chips should be filled in, plaster should be used to level the surface, and antiseptic compositions should be applied. Processing is required to stop mold and fungal lesions from growing on the walls, which over time can erode the facade’s structural integrity.
It is not necessary to apply a primer when installing a ventilated facade. Generally speaking, surface priming is necessary when finishing work entails painting walls or applying decorative plaster.
What kinds of facing tiles are used on the facade might also be of interest to you.
In this instance, the primer is used to paint the surface and raise the plaster mixture’s clutch forces.
Markings for the locations of the guide profiles and the bracket mount points should be applied to the walls after they have been prepared. One facing panel’s width should be roughly equivalent to the space between the profiles.
Manufacturing and installation of a frame/crate for lining
You can now install the guides and fasteners after applying the marking lines. To accomplish this, use a perforator to drill holes for anchor bolts in the house’s walls.
After twisting the brackets with a screwdriver while they are positioned on anchor dowels, the insulation layer is installed. The thermal insulation material is suspended through fastener-prepared slots.
You must have guides, or metal profiles, arranged vertically. The resultant crate is prepared for the ventilation cloth to be hung. In order to account for temperature deformations, the profile itself needs to be attached freely.
Laying heat and waterproofing
The method used to install ventilated facade systems differs from that used to install standard facade panels in that the former requires the installation of the first overlap, meaning that gaps between joints are not allowed to compensate for the thermal extensions of the facade facing material.
A plate-style dowel is installed into holes drilled into the wall through layers of insulation and windydrumpth membrane. These dowels are used to fix membranes and insulation.
The membrane must be secured to the exterior of the insulation layer, and a 10-cm-wide overlap of material must be noted. The film’s inner side needs to be firmly adhered to the layer of thermal insulation. In this instance, the overlap needs to be sealed with sealing tape to prevent moisture and condensation from building up on the insulation.
Installation of a ventilated facade system
At first look, installing a vent system appears to be very simple, and you might even think that if you know how to work with facade elements, you can install a cladding on your own. Facade panel installation technology, however, has subtleties of its own that if you are unaware of, you risk ruining both the material and the effective design of the crate.
Therefore, it is important to keep in mind that when using galvanized fasteners and profiles for guide crates, they should both be able to support heavy loads—for instance, the same weight of facade elements.
Read this article to learn how to choose a private home’s design facade.
It is necessary to insert a rubber seal for fasteners after fixing into the profile. in order to stop corrosive processes from spreading. Гакупорка воздушной прослойки может возникнуть вентилируемого фасада при самостоятельном монтаже. This results from the insulation layer or membrane settling as a result of inadequate heat and windygid layer fixation. Because the facade panels are under additional load in this situation, the lining may become wet or deform under load if the panels are made of vinyl, which is a finishing material that is both sufficiently fragile and least durable. In these situations, you will need to take the panels off and do the necessary repairs.
Calculation of the thickness of the layer
There are installed barriers to heat transmission through building and structure walls. SNiP 23.02.2003. The norms state that you should multiply the value of the required heat resistance parameter by the thermal conductivity of the material used to make the wall in order to determine whether or not the house needs insulation.
Spruce walls in central Russian cities like Moscow, Smolensk, and Ryazan should be between 27 and 28 centimeters thick, with a maximum wood thickness of 20 cm. Of course, the beam needs more than one layer, but two would be prohibitively expensive. Installing insulation will solve the issue and save money at a much lower cost.
Based on the same features, you can calculate the insulation’s thickness. To compute, use the thermal insulator’s thermal conductivity parameter, which is shown in table 1.
Table 1: The thermal conductivity of different insulation types
Material | Thermal conductivity, W/m*° C |
Poliuretan foam | 0.025 |
Styrofoam | 0.05 |
Mineral slab | 0.047 |
Tree | 0.18 |
Foam polystyrene | 0.03 |
Manufacturers and prices
There are enough manufacturers in the construction industry today, and each one has a distinct product line.
- Rockwool Venta Battts- Minvat price 450 rubles;
- Thermal glass is Facade – the price of mineral wool is 350 rubles;
- Technical person – the price of mineral wool is 490 rubles;
- Izovent – the price of mineral wool is 475 rubles;
- Ecover – the price of minvata 540 rubles;
- KNAUF THEM foam – price 782 rubles;
- Penoplex comfort – price 1200 rubles.
Facade insulation is crucial because it not only improves the appearance of the house but also helps to keep it warmer. Since there are so many different types of heaters available on the market today, selecting one shouldn’t present any difficulties. Selecting an appropriate solution needs to be done taking into account the climate and structural characteristics of your area.
Germany is the historical birthplace of ventilated facades, having been the center of development of this technology since the 1950s, when it was founded on a metal frame and facing materials.
Installation
How are the ventilated facades mounted using your own hands?This is a rough guide on how to get things done.
A vertical container is put together. Step: five centimeters narrower than the insulating plate width. They need to be placed in between the dispute’s profiles or bars. Using the threads stretched between the extreme elements makes it simple to ensure that the entire crate is in the same plane.
Dowels-zone can be used to further fix the insulation.
Insulation is used to secure siding to the completed crate. Remember that polyvinyl chloride expands at a high rate of thermal expansion. The panels are never enjoyed or tightly fixed. There should be a minimum of five millimeters of space remaining between the panel’s edges and the closest stop. Furthermore, the panels must be able to sag and move freely in the horizontal plane due to the fasteners.
Siding panels ought to be mounted freely. It is not appropriate to fixate rigidly.
Recommendations for the construction of the facade
The schematic representation of the ventilated facade’s basement device, featuring multiple mounting points.
The design and construction of ventilated facades are generally not very complicated. However, you shouldn’t ignore the advice, even though it might seem unimportant at first, if you want the house to look stable after decorating and the heat insulator to be firmly mounted on the wall and perform its functions on a regular basis. The preparatory phase is where all work starts. In order to set up the ventilated facade device, you will need:
- clean the walls of dust, dirt, paint, destroying fragments of plaster and parts protruding from the surface;
- door and window openings are freed from castings, slopes of the platbands;
- cavities and cracks on the surface are sealed with solution;
- the wall is treated with a primer;
- The crate is installed according to the level and plumb line to provide the perfect plane (it is better to create a system of legends stretched around the perimeter of the wall through the steel rods of threads connected by transverse cords through its corners).
Remember!
The ventilated facade’s basement heat-insulating device.
- If the insulation is carried out by mineral wool, then the distance between the guide profiles should be slightly less than the width of the sheet of the insulation.
- Before laying the insulator, set the starting bar, which should correspond to its thickness by level.
- Start insulation in those places where the use of whole pieces of insulation is required, put fragments last.
- Do not allow the gaps between neighboring insulation canvases.
- The glue that will maintain isolation on the surface will not be able to cope with the task independently, so additionally attach insulation with plastered dowels (the method of attachment is written above).
Not every wall can claim to have a perfectly level or vertical surface. Because of this, you should typically avoid wasting cubic meters of the alignment solution, as the associated costs will be "cosmic." Using the P-shaped mounts, you can construct a vertical plane from the profile following the wall’s rough preparation. A system of farewells will be useful in this situation. Secure the beam or profile to the p-suspension by paying attention to the threads. Either make your own suspension or use the factory one (rice. 3).
Ensuring its dependable attachment to the wall dowel-clavings is crucial. The distance between P-shaped pieces shouldn’t be more than 400 mm.
We go over the necessary procedures and factors to take into account when installing a hinged wood facade in this guide, along with helpful advice to guarantee a smooth and long-lasting installation. In order to improve the visual appeal and structural integrity of residential exteriors, this article will provide contractors and homeowners with the necessary knowledge on everything from building preparation and material selection to exact mounting and facade maintenance techniques.
Video system about the installation work on the ventilated facade
Learn more about the porcelain tile cladding plates used to mount the ventilated facades in a video block.
In light of the foregoing, the following conclusions can be made:
- The installation technology of the ventilated facade is similar to the installation technology of facade panels from PVC, porcelain tiles or tiles. However, it has its own nuances, not knowing about which, it will not be possible to install the cladding correctly;
- Having experience working with facade systems, you can set the warfares yourself if you have nowhere to hurry and I really want to get the result “for conscience”.
Nevertheless, a lot of people try to save money in the construction industry by doing all the work themselves. Of course, the homeowner will benefit from the properly installed ventilation facade for at least thirty years.
You might find it interesting to read about house facade faces.
Design features of the main nodes
Bracket mount to the carrier wall
The pivoting facade’s guide rails, which make up the majority of the frame, are fastened to the carrier wall using brackets. This is the reason why the strength of this node is subject to higher requirements. The following are this node’s features:
- To fix the bracket on the bearing wall, an anchor dowel is used.
- When fastening into dense wall fences (concrete, full -bodied brick and t.D.) It is recommended to use anchor dowels with a metal sleeve. For loose materials, such as shells or self -sided brick, the use of plastic sleeves is preferable.
Dowel clad in a metal jacket
- A steam pad is installed between the wall and the supporting part of the bracket.
- Depending on the type of facade system, all brackets are either attached according to one scheme, or are divided into supporting and supporting.
- The carrier bracket accepts both the wind load and the vertical, and the supporting – only wind. As a rule, one anchor is needed to fix the support bracket, and two or more. In more detail, the mounting method describes the instructions of the facade system that you will choose to install.
An example diagram of this node can be seen in the picture in this article. Using the running bracket
Fastening guide strips to brackets
The next unit is the node of the mounting of the guide rails of the facade system to the brackets. As guides in the hinged facades, vertical and horizontal metal profiles are used. The step of the guides is determined by the dimensions and weight of facing materials. For example, a ventilated facade of porcelain tiles is mounted on a frame with a step corresponding to the size of the tile itself – usually 600 mm. The guide mounting option for fastening the guide to the bracket is used either rivets or (less often) – screw mounts. For fastening, the oval hole is most often made in the bracket – so the guide receives relative freedom at temperature deformation. You can learn the technology of assembling the frame on the brackets using video instructions.
Window and door slopes
The frame of windows and doorways is made up of window and door slopes. Make a distinction between the side and upper slopes; the drainage refers to the lower slope. The hinged facade’s upper slope is a link that, when combined with a fire cutting, establishes the building’s overall fire safety. When the room catches fire, the so-called "firebox" is installed in the slope of the slope to keep the fire from spreading to the facade:
- Fire box in different facade systems can be made both by a single design and in the form of prefabricated elements.
- Mineral wool or liner of other non -combustible material is laid into the inner cavity of the fire box.
- The fire box is rigidly attached to the walls using metal anchors.
Nizhny Node, or ebb, needs to be planned with extreme care as well. This is because air access within the ventilated facade is provided by the lower node. A water-polling node sketched
Buildings of the building, base and parapet
Typically, facing elements and specialized angular racks are used to mount the internal and external angles of the mounted facade. In the absence of such components, the angle is typically overlapped. For the purpose of designing the hinged facade’s nodes, the base and parapet are fairly intricate. This is primarily because the basement and parapet need to have exhaust and supply holes installed. The facade’s basement
Fire cutting off
The fire cutting knot is another one that needs to be discussed:
- Fire cutting off is a metal plate (solid or perforated), which is mounted in the gap of the facade around the perimeter of the building.
- The main task of cutting off is to prevent the spread of the burning of a windproof film inside the facade.
- The cut -off is installed on the brackets using rivets. If an all -metal cutting is used, then it is mounted in such a way as not to prevent free ventilation of the facade.
The plan for the Alucom system’s cutting installation The primary components of hinged ventilated facades are made so that, despite their overall design difficulty, the facade can be put together by hand. While you wouldn’t describe it as easy, it is doable with the right amount of planning!
Installation Steps | Key Considerations | |
1. Prepare the Surface: | En | Use appropriate sealants to seal gaps between panels and around windows or doors. |
A popular option for boosting the visual appeal and longevity of residential buildings is a wood hinged facade, which combines natural beauty with structural dependability. To guarantee both functional integrity and aesthetic coherence with the overall architecture, its installation requires careful planning and execution.
An integral part of installing a wood hinged facade is careful preparation. This entails evaluating the building’s structure to make sure sufficient support and weatherproofing are in place. To ensure a precise fit, every panel needs to be meticulously measured and cut, taking into consideration any surface irregularities or architectural elements of the building.
Paying close attention to details is essential during the installation process. Accurately fastening every panel guarantees a tight fit and improves the facade’s resistance to weather over time. By protecting the wood from moisture and UV rays, proper sealing and finishing methods help maintain the wood’s natural look and structural integrity.
Furthermore, upkeep is essential to extending the life of a wood hinged facade. Its longevity and best-looking condition can be greatly extended with timely repairs and refinishing, as well as routine inspections for wear or damage.
In summary, the installation of a wood hinged facade necessitates meticulous planning, expert craftsmanship, and continuing upkeep. Following these guidelines will help homeowners maintain the longevity and sustainability of this classic architectural element in addition to improving the aesthetic appeal of their houses.