How to insulate the foundation of an already built wooden house outside with your own hands: Types of insulation

To ensure energy efficiency and moisture protection, it’s critical to select the appropriate insulation method when it comes to insulating the foundation of an existing wooden house. In addition to preventing heat loss and assisting in temperature regulation indoors, insulating the foundation protects your home’s structural integrity.

For exterior foundation insulation, a variety of insulating material types are appropriate. Rigid foam board insulation, such as expanded or extruded polystyrene (XPS), is a common choice (EPS). These materials are easily installed around the outside of the foundation and are effective at resisting moisture.

Spray foam insulation is an additional technique that effectively closes gaps and offers good coverage. When spray foam insulation is applied, it expands to fill in gaps and form a seamless barrier that prevents moisture intrusion and heat loss.

While these are also possibilities, fiberglass and mineral wool batt insulation are more frequently found in above-grade walls than in foundations. Utilizing these materials in conjunction with other insulation techniques can increase R-values and enhance thermal performance in general.

It’s crucial to clean the foundation and check it for any damage or moisture problems before beginning the insulation process. A well-prepared surface guarantees proper adhesion and long-term performance of the insulation.

Why insulate the foundation outside

The base’s external insulation simultaneously resolves multiple issues:

• retains heat in the house;
• plays the role of waterproofing, thereby protecting the basement (if any) from condensate;
• saves heating funds;
• retains the integrity of the base with frosty fusion.

Compared to internal insulation, which must be utilized only when the basement has adequate ventilation, it is far more effective. If not, the foundation will change the dew point and have an impact on low temperatures and humidity. External insulation does not include these instances. Selecting the material to be sheathed with a wooden house’s foundation also depends on the type of base (tape, columnar, pile, or monolithic).

The insulation process ought to be completed during the foundation-building phase.

When it comes to home renovation, insulating an existing wooden house’s foundation is essential to comfort and energy efficiency. This article examines doable techniques for insulating the outside of a wooden house’s foundation, with an emphasis on various insulation material types. Knowing these insulation options will help you make informed decisions for your home, whether the issues are related to controlling moisture, regulating temperature, or simply improving structural durability. This guide gives you the knowledge and advice you need to complete a successful DIY insulation project that will greatly improve the thermal performance and lifespan of your home, using anything from conventional materials like foam boards to cutting-edge solutions like spray foam insulation.

Types of insulation

Expanded clay and foam polystyrene, polyurethane, or polystyrene foam are typically utilized for this kind of work. These materials have low thermal conductivity, low water permeability, and high resistance to temperature changes.

Foam polystyrene

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPPS) poles come in a range of thicknesses and sizes. The content offers a lot of benefits.

• almost waterproof – moisture absorption of not more than 0.2 %;
• The minimum thermal conductivity is 0, 032 W/m to at a temperature of 20-30 degrees, which with a thickness of 3 cm corresponds to brickwork with a thickness of 55 cm;
• high indicator of deformation resistance;
• resistance to certain chemical compositions;
• resistance to temperature differences in the range minus 50 – plus 75 degrees;
• service life – from 50 years;
• a light weight;
• small thickness;
• safe for health.

Its class G4 combustibility and UV radiation-induced destruction in the sun are among its drawbacks. Consequently, top-level decorative painting of a wooden house’s foundation is necessary when employing EPPS.

While utilizing polystyrene foam, he came into contact with:

• solvents for oil paint;
• plasticizers with the content of coal resins (putty, adhesive);
• acetone;
• oil compositions, toluene;
• ethyl acetate used to remove paint;
• some compositions to protect wood.

The material has a homogeneous structure, even breaks, smooth edges, and a high mechanical pressure resistance. You should be aware of this when making a purchase and, if at all possible, double-check.

Poliuretan foam

The foam is more expensive than polystyrene but has a higher energy efficiency. Conversely, polyurethane foam foam can be employed in situations where the basement’s complex configuration, an old stone base, or the house’s architectural monument prohibit the use of plot insulation. Additionally, polyurethane foam (PPU) works well in situations where it is challenging to ensure that all seams with slab materials are completely sealed, particularly when working with a large foundation area. Another virtue of polyurethane foam is its application speed.

It also possesses the following qualities:

• soundproofing;
• compression strength – up to 140 kPa (corresponds to the polystyrene, inferior EPS);
• resistance to all organic type solvent, acids and alkalis of medium concentration;
• moisture permeability – up to 1%;
• exceptionally high adhesion with the base;
• fire hazard-G1-G4;
• the cost of 3 times exceeds the price of EPS and foam.

UV radiation must be avoided; if not, the sun will be destroyed in three days.

PIR plates from PPU are also available in addition to foam; based on technical specifications, they resemble EPPS but are lined with aluminum foil and primarily used for internal basement insulation without the need for extra decorative embellishment.

Ceramzit

The material is made up of light grain that is produced when clay breed is fired. In the immediate vicinity of the outer side of the foundation, air layers are formed by light fragments, which have a diameter ranging from 5 to 40 mm. In order to accomplish this, the wall is constructed using basement finish boards at a specific distance from it, and the resulting cavity is then filled with either large (2-4) or expanded clay fractions (1-2 cm).

Waterproofing and drainage work are done concurrently because the material has a high capacity to absorb moisture.

Benefits include low cost, ease of use when working, lack of rodent habitation, resistance to rot and fire, and resistance to damage from frost.

Styrofoam

Foamed polystyrene is an inexpensive, non-hygroscopic, long-lasting, deformation-resistant material that can withstand any temperature. This material is used if you need to finish the wooden house’s base on a budget. The fragility of the insulation is its only drawback, so you must handle it with caution.

Although the sheets’ standard size is 1 x 2 m, their thickness can vary from 2 to 10 cm. The content includes:

• some noise absorption;
• average combustibility – G4;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to chemical compositions, including lime, hydrogen peroxide, gypsum, acids, with the exception of vinegar and nitrogen high concentration;
• resistance to bacterial effects;
• environmental safety.

In addition, he is susceptible to the effects of termites, rodents, benzene, acetone, and ultraviolet light.

Features of insulation of different types of foundation

Any foundation needs to have the basement of the house insulated and clad in wood. Both the insulation technique and the basis of the base are chosen based on the kind and state of the soil.

The strip foundation

This base is a reinforced concrete tape that extends to various depths in the ground and passes beneath all load-bearing walls. The strip foundation’s external insulation can be mixed, horizontal, or vertical.

The first scenario uses plates to shield the base’s walls; the second involves insulating the blind area (particularly with shallow deepening) to prevent fusion; and the third scenario is utilized in areas with plus winter temperatures without ground-level floor insulation. Because the wooden base is so vulnerable to the medium’s outside influences, it is additionally insulated both vertically and horizontally.

Column foundation

Good ventilation and low humidity are provided by the high air gap beneath the house. However, in cold weather, the supports help the soil fuse by removing heat from it. They are also destroyed by temperature changes. To prevent this from occurring:

• The space between the earth and the house is isolated from cold air and drafts;
• Thermal insulation is installed on the surface of the supports;
• insulate the soil near the buried part of the pillars.

Warming up supports when they are being installed is a good idea. Expanded clay is used for this; the layer beneath the pillar needs to be at least 25 cm thick. Surface isolation from EPS and drainage are also included.

EPPS slabs are also a better option for formwork if the supports are created by pouring concrete.

Pile foundation

This kind of foundation also requires insulation because the railway rostrik or metal is a cold accumulator that causes a large amount of heat loss from the house. Insulation is required not only for the subterranean area but also for the concrete-filled piles. By analogy with the supports of the columnar base mentioned previously, their insulation takes place. The pile foundation outside the house should then be sealed from the beam using slab insulation and ornamental painting. This will prevent communication from freezing and enhance the building’s visual appeal.

Monolithic foundation

The pillow, which contains the insulation (PPU, EPPS, or PELL), is equipped prior to the direct pouring of the reinforced concrete monolith:

1. Priming.
2. Sand.
3. Geotextiles.
4. Crushed stone.
5. Concrete preparation.
6. Waterproofing.
7. Insulation.
8. Protective plastic film.
9. Railway plate.

With such a pie, you can cut down on the house’s heat loss considerably.

The efficiency of warm floors is increased when a heat-saving layer is present.

It is only feasible to install monolithic insulation prior to foundation filling.

It is essential to insulate the foundation of an existing wooden house in order to preserve its energy efficiency and structural integrity. Homeowners can improve interior comfort, stop heat loss, and lessen moisture intrusion by adding insulation to the exterior of the foundation.

A wooden house’s foundation can be insulated using a variety of insulation types. Because of their strong insulation value and resistance to moisture, rigid foam insulation boards made of expanded polystyrene (EPS) or extruded polystyrene (XPS) are frequently utilized. Spray foam insulation is an additional choice that offers superior coverage and can adapt to uneven surfaces.

It’s crucial to properly prepare the foundation before beginning the insulation project. This include clearing the surface of any dirt or debris, fixing any cracks or damage, and making sure the foundation has adequate drainage to avoid water buildup.

Make sure the insulation is installed in accordance with local building codes and manufacturer guidelines when applying it. The effectiveness and durability of insulation are maximized with proper installation. Additionally, to protect the insulation from the elements and lengthen its lifespan, think about adding a protective layer, like a drainage mat or weather-resistant barrier.

Homeowners can increase their home’s longevity and energy efficiency by insulating the foundation of a wooden house. Making an insulation investment can result in long-term cost savings on heating and cooling while also improving year-round comfort in the home.

Video on the topic

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