House insulation from aerated concrete: how to do it correctly?

Here at "All about the Facades of the House," we’ll go over everything you need know to enhance and insulate the outside of your house. We explore the use of aerated concrete for home insulation in this article. Because of its insulating qualities and lightweight nature, aerated concrete is becoming more and more common in home construction and renovation. In this article, we’ll go over the advantages of aerated concrete insulation and practical implementation techniques.

Cement, lime, sand, and water are the main ingredients of aerated concrete, also known as autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC), which is a lightweight building material. Numerous microscopic air bubbles in its structure add to its superior thermal insulation capabilities. Aerated concrete can save a lot of energy by helping to control indoor temperature. It keeps your home warmer in the winter and colder in the summer.

Aerated concrete insulation for a home requires several important steps. Make sure the external walls are clear of debris and clean first. After that, coat the aerated concrete panels or blocks with an adhesive that has been specially prepared. These blocks are perfect for both professionals and do-it-yourselfers because they are lightweight and manageable.

The longevity and moisture resistance of aerated concrete make it a great choice for insulation. In contrast to conventional insulation materials such as fiberglass or foam, aerated concrete remains intact over an extended period of exposure to moisture. Because of this, it is especially appropriate for areas with variable weather, where controlling moisture is essential to preserving the building’s structural integrity.

It’s important to properly seal joints and gaps when installing aerated concrete insulation. This guarantees the highest level of thermal insulation efficiency and stops air leaks, which can reduce the insulation’s effectiveness. To shield the aerated concrete from the weather and improve the facade of your house overall, think about adding cladding or a weather-resistant finish to it.

When building a new home or remodeling an old one, aerated concrete provides a flexible and efficient way to insulate the home. It is a well-liked option for both builders and homeowners due to its outstanding thermal qualities and lightweight design. Stay tuned as we delve deeper into the topic of improving the exterior of your house with doable tricks and knowledgeable guidance.

Do I need to warm houses from aerated concrete?

Aerated concrete insulation for homes is not urgently needed, especially when it comes to heat-efficient building material brands. This is because building materials are made up of cells that include sand, cement, lime, water, and aluminum powder. After mixing, the ingredients are put in an autoclave. There, the corrosion of the aluminum powder causes them to foam. As a result of the reaction’s oxygen release, concrete gains porosity.

However, in the severe Russian weather, one is almost always forced to have such a decoration. Work with the necessary is made necessary by the following factors:

• Non -compliance with masonry technology when large seams formed. They are the so -called cold bridges, on which the heat -subsistence resistance is reduced. This also worsens the heat efficiency of the building.
• Use in the construction of blocks with a density of D500 or more.
• Walls up to 30 cm thick (called numbers and 64 cm, which makes the material not so energy -efficient).
• Filling with gas blocks only load -bearing frames.

The insulation of walls made of aerated concrete is also contingent upon living in areas with severe weather. By reducing the thickness of the walls and the load on the foundation, an extra layer of thermal insulation can lower building costs.

Aerated concrete can be used to heat a house using a variety of materials.

Each of them has benefits and drawbacks of its own. Additionally, insulation technology is unique.

When a house has been occupied for a while and it is discovered that its thermal conductivity is higher than anticipated, insulation is typically installed. However, this kind of work is frequently done during the building phase. They then delay installing insulation. Initially, the entire box is constructed. After that, they wait two to five months to allow the walls to dry out and remove any remaining moisture from the blocks.

Insulation of a house from aerated concrete outside and inside

Both the inside and outside of buildings are insulated.

Advantages of insulation

• the energy efficiency of the building increases;
• less thermal energy is required;
• The building is better protected from heat in the summer;
• Heating costs are reduced in the winter;
• sound insulation improves;
• The life of the building is extended.

External insulation

Such insulation has the advantage of lowering the dew point. Consequently, the impact of "cold bridges" is reduced. They typically appear in army, jumpers, and floor slabs. Condensate cannot form on walls with thermal insulation on the inside.

The most important thing to remember when heating a house is to measure the insulation correctly. Special calculators that include the region of residence and all other required parameters can be used to accomplish this.

Insulation from the inside

Internal wall insulation is less significant and frequently even detrimental to structural components. The work usually entails leveling the walls. Plasterboard sheets are frequently utilized for this. The installation of the insulation structure causes the room’s area to be lost, which makes internal insulation inconvenient.

The following situations allow the use of this thermal insulation method:

• The authorities have banned the change in the facade of the building;
• Behind the wall, the deformation seam between the buildings;
• The room is adjacent to an unheated room that cannot be insulated – for example, an elevator mine.

External insulation is still preferred as a result.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a highly recognized and favored heating material. It can take various forms:

Mineral wool can withstand exposure to chemicals and heat. The material has a thermal conductivity of roughly 0.035 W/m*° C. The material’s density is the primary determinant of this indicator. Its capacity to retain heat diminishes with time as a result of moisture penetration.

Benefits of using mineral wool for insulation:

• fire resistance and the ability to delay the spread of fire;
• vapor permeability (10 times higher than that of polystyrene foam);
• long -term operation of the insulation layer (up to 70 years);
• Minvata in the plates holds the shape well;
• simplicity and ease of installation;
• Resistant to decay.

Experts point out that one of the drawbacks is hygroscopicity, or the capacity to absorb moisture. Therefore, 10% of the thermal insulation properties were lost when moisturizing at 2%.

Crucial! Acrylic plasters cannot be used when mineral wool is used to warm buildings. Condensate will be produced by this.

One considers stiffness while selecting cotton wool. The better the sheet holds its shape, the higher this indicator is. The shape and orientation of the fibers are significant additional factors. Selecting materials with fibers oriented in a chaotic manner is ideal.

Video – insulation of a house from aerated concrete

The drawback of mineral wool insulation is that it will cost about one-third more than foam and polystyrene or polystyrene alone. There will also be a thick layer of insulation. Additionally, the builders state that there is a chance that this material poses a health risk. Formaldehyde is one of the ingredients in the insulation. This material is regarded as a carcinogen and is detrimental to the body.

As a result, you must wear a respirator when working with minvata to shield your respiratory system from even the tiniest dust particles entering your body. However, there won’t be any health risks if the heat insulator is handled correctly.

The insulating layers can become home to rodent colonies. The finish’s ability to insulate against heat will then rapidly become useless. In the building’s basement, a metal cornice is placed at the base of the crate to keep pests out of the structure. This is advised when working with different materials.

Mineral wool insulation technology

Detailed instructions for using mineral wool as insulation:

Step 1: Contamination is removed from the wall, cement is used to wipe the stitches, and the surface is aligned. Use plaster if the damage is substantial. If not, there will be more heat loss because the insulation will fit loosely.

Step 2: Apply a metal tint to the bottom of the building’s perimeter. Put in wooden wall bars. They should be separated by a distance that is 1-2 centimeters less than the cotton wool sheet’s width. The sheets ought to be tucked in tightly.

Step 3: Using a glue pena or glue dowel-zontics, adhere mineral wool to the wall. In order to obtain the chess, the slabs are invested between the bars, shifting them with respect to the lower row.

Step 4: Apply vapor barrier film to the insulation, covering it with another layer of adhesive solution and attaching it to the brackets.

Step 5: The perforated corners are reinforced by the corners.

After the mineral wool installation is finished, a ventilated facade is put in place.

Prices for mineral wool

Minvata

Mineral wool is typically limited to facades with ventilation. The plaster cannot be applied to the insulation because it is not stiff enough.

Vapor barrier films must be used when warming the mineral wool on the exterior walls of the home. Condensate and moisture are protected by the coating. The walls "breathe" because air is able to pass through it at the same time.

Foam polystyrene

Regarding the warming agent for walls made of aerated concrete, the builders’ opinions are unclear regarding polystyrene foam.

On the one hand, it is a 98% air-formed thermal insulation material that is well-liked in Russia. More than 60% of the polystyrene produced in Europe is used to insulate various types of buildings from heat.

Consider the benefits of insulation:

• neutrality, the absence of excretions of harmful substances during operation;
• resistance to decay, mold formation, but such colonies can form on its surface;
• lack of cases of infection with microorganisms;
• immunity to temperature fluctuations.

One of the drawbacks of polystyrene foam is that it can interact with certain chemicals, such as alcohols, oil products, and organic solvents. In these products’ presence, the panel may disintegrate. Furthermore, polystyrene foam is combustible.

Table 1 presents the thermal insulation properties of 12 cm thick polystyrene foam (PSB-S) in relation to various building materials.

The name of the material	Wall thickness, cm
Reinforced concrete	420
Brick	210
Keramziton	90
Wood	12

However, some oppose the material and advise against using it on aerated concrete homes. The low vapor permeability of the polystyrene foam serves as evidence for their position.

Experts point out the following. According to construction standards, materials that are warmer and steam-permeable should be placed outside, while materials that are cold and deaf should be placed inside when designing multi-layer insulation. If not, the aerated concrete’s outer layer won’t have enough time to dry over the summer. Because of this, moisture progressively builds up inside of it, which causes the wall’s bearing capacity to gradually decline. As a result, the material’s thermal conductivity rises. The dew point gradually moves inside and, most likely, toward the inner wall. On its surface, there will be condensation, fungus, etc. D.

The following issues appear a few years after insulation, not right away. Because of this, using polystyrene foam is advised only in dire circumstances. Mineral wool, according to those who oppose it, is a better building material.

Due to the aforementioned drawbacks, it is crucial to accurately determine the thickness of the insulation layer when using polystyrene to warm a house. Maintaining the proper ventilation of the space is also essential.

Technology of insulation with foam

Similar to working with mineral wool, the surface must be ready before warming the walls with foam. Next, antiseptic solutions are applied to the block surfaces to stop the growth of fungus and mold. Apply a primer to the facade once it has dried.

Installing is done in the following order, starting from below:

1. The adhesive composition is applied to the plates – around the perimeter and in several places in the rest of the area.
2. With an effort, press each plate to the aerated concrete wall.
3. After the end of the first row, they are placed "chess".
4. Waiting for 24 hours.
5. Fasten the sheets with dowels-zontics.
6. Perform finish (strengthening mesh made of fiberglass, finish decorative plaster).

The order of insulation on the room’s walls is the same as it is outside.

The dowels used to secure the panels ought to be composed entirely of plastic and not include any metal components. Metal has the ability to form more "cold bridges" while in use. It will require at least 5 dowels for each sheet.

Video – how to insulate the house with polystyrene. All stages

It is important to consider how the plates connect at the building’s corners when laying. Thus, one man is approaching the panel and leaning against it, while in the other case, the opposite is true.

Glue for polystyrene foam

Since they were already mentioned, adhesive compounds intended for use with polystyrene foam shouldn’t contain any ingredients that could break down the foam’s structure. To secure, apply:

• Ready -made dry mixtures of the Bergauf ISOFIX CERESI CT 85;
• Bitumast -type liquid adhesives;
• Installation adhesives-for example, techno-nibble 500.

Work should be done in dry weather with a minimum air temperature of 7 °C.

They take appropriate products, which are typically less expensive, for internal work.

Penopropliex

Extruded polystyrene foam is known as Penoplax. The material effectively rivals foam and mineral wool. It retains heat just as well as mineral wool and is as light as foam but denser.

Prices for popular types of heaters of Penoplax

Penoplax insulation

The insulation possesses the subsequent features:

• retains 30% more heat in comparison with polystyrene foam due to greater density;
• has a lower thermal conductivity in comparison with the analogue;
• It has high compression and stretch strength due to a special structure;
• fireproof due to the addition of antipyrene (ignited only at a temperature of 500 ° C);
• wear and tear;
• easy to process;
• It is relatively inexpensive.

Among the drawbacks, according to builders, is its poor adhesion. It does not interact well with adhesives because of its high density. Because of this, even when fasteners are used, the material is more frequently used inside buildings. The losses of the living space (sometimes even tiny) with such insulation are negligible because the plates are thin (5–30 mm).

Working with foam pool

Use glue-penes of the Fastfix type for foam plate installation. Additionally, the following will be necessary:

• glue mixture for plastering;
• reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass for facade walls;
• corners with perforation;
• plaster and paint for external work;
• A primer of deep penetration.

Deep penetration primer prices

A primer of deep penetration

Crucial! Use plates that are at least 50 mm thick for external work. However, it is advised by builders to lay the plates in two layers, creating a 100 mm foam pool.

The facade is insulated in the manner described below:

1. Clean the wall of the old layers of plaster, if there are.
2. Wipe the walls with a damp rag or vacuum.
3. Treated with facade primer, repeat after drying the first layer.
4. A metal profile is fixed from below, which leverates the first row of foamedex.
5. Apply a layer of adhesive foam along the edges and several strips – in the center.
6. Glue foam to the wall.
7. Glue the rest of the slabs closer to each other.
8. The second and subsequent row is laid, shifting vertical seams in a checkerboard pattern.
9. Put slabs on slopes.
10. Fix the slabs with dowels-zontics.

Prior to applying a decorative coating, the slap slabs’ surface must be made. Sandpaper or a grater can be used for this. Next, a primer that encourages two-layer adhesion is applied to the facade. Foam, originally intended for walls, is stuffed into the spaces between the plates. Perforated corners are created by slopes and the exterior corners of the house. A net is used to reinforce the surface. Apply a decorative finish after that.

It is essential to insulate an aerated concrete home in order to preserve comfort and energy efficiency. The lightweight and insulating qualities of aerated concrete offer a strong base for efficient insulation. Aerated concrete walls can be insulated using a variety of techniques, each with special advantages based on the climate, available funds, and desired energy savings.

External insulation, which involves applying insulation materials directly to the house’s outer walls, is one of the most efficient techniques. This method preserves the aerated concrete’s structural integrity while also improving thermal performance. Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene (EPS) are two materials that are frequently used because of their exceptional durability and insulating qualities.

Applying insulating materials to the inside walls of a house is another feasible option for internal insulation. This approach might result in a little reduction in living space, but it is less disruptive during installation. Still, it’s a sensible option, particularly for renovations where changing the external face is difficult.

The secret to maximizing the effectiveness of insulation is to ensure proper installation, regardless of the method selected. This entails applying material with precision, caulking gaps, and reducing thermal bridges. Professional advice can be very helpful in determining which materials and methods are best for a given climate and energy efficiency objectives.

All things considered, insulating aerated concrete homes not only improves comfort by maintaining indoor temperatures, but it also makes a substantial impact on cutting energy use and utility expenses. In the long run, homeowners can achieve a well-insulated home that is both economically and environmentally advantageous by selecting the right insulation method and materials.

This guide covers the fundamentals of insulating homes made of aerated concrete and provides helpful guidance on the right materials and techniques to guarantee comfort and effective energy savings. This article attempts to equip builders and homeowners with the knowledge necessary to improve insulation effectiveness, lower energy costs, and create more sustainable living spaces—from comprehending the special qualities of aerated concrete to practical insulation techniques.

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