Coat for plaster slopes

Facade enhancement is a critical component of home exterior design, contributing to both visual appeal and practicality. Plaster slope coating selection is a crucial aspect of facade design. These slopes—also referred to as the inclined surfaces of walls—need special coatings in order to improve their durability and weather resistance.

Plaster slope coatings have several functions. They offer a glossy, visually pleasing finish in addition to serving as a barrier against moisture, UV rays, and mechanical harm. By avoiding cracks and deterioration over time, the proper coating can greatly increase the lifespan of your facade.

Plaster slope coatings come in a variety of forms, each with their own advantages. Conventional choices, such as renders made of cement, offer durability and resilience to weather, making them appropriate for a variety of climates. However, acrylic renders are more flexible and simpler to use, enabling more precise finishing and texture and color customization.

Cutting-edge facade technologies have given rise to novel coatings like silicone renders, which combine the strength of cement with improved breathability and water resistance. Because they provide excellent protection without sacrificing the facade’s visual appeal, these renders are perfect for locations that frequently experience high humidity or rainfall.

The proper plaster slope coating selection is essential for homeowners who want to improve the external appearance of their home. This article examines the advantages of different coatings, emphasizing their effects on durability and appearance, ranging from contemporary synthetic options to classic stucco. Whether you value a traditional appearance or are looking for environmentally friendly options, knowing the features and upkeep requirements of these coatings will help you make an informed choice that will match the design of your home while providing long-term resistance to wear and weather.

Slopes and angles plaster

Plastering walls can be challenging for many people. For instance, not everyone is skilled at plastering corners or windows with a proper slope.

Surface preparation is the first step in plastering the window slopes. The entire perimeter of the window frame is covered with painting tape. Above the window, the jumper has a mesh attached to it.

The upper slope has a plaster wall reinforcing mesh attached to it.

To ensure that the bar is flush with the window slope, wooden strips are nailed to the walls from the plastered sides of the window opening (no more than 5 mm is allowed). A very liquid cement mortar is applied to the side slopes to dampen them. The upper slope of a window slope is plastered first. Using a trowel, a trunk is applied to the net on the grid and pushed through it to, in a sense, glue the rabbit mesh to the upper slop.

The slopes of the windows start to plaster from the upper

Utilizing a trowel, the side slopes are applied. Next, take a small 90-degree angle rule and lift it by resting one plane inside the window frame and the other in a wooden panka. Raising the rule eliminates extra plaster and evenizes the slope.

Plaster windows

The plaster must still be finished and the rule must be leveled again if the recesses persist. After that, you’ll have to wait for the plaster to set. Using a grater and a liquid plaster solution, the hardened plaster should be cleaned. Grinding must be done in circular motions. Оогда зотовы будут ботовы проѹтись по оштукатуренной поверхности наждачной бумагой и снять деревянные планки.

When штукатурят стены у многих возникаят трудности, пто не все знаят как правильно штукатурить углы стен. Using a wooden bar or rule will ensure that the plastering of the walls is completed extremely evenly. There are two types of corners: internal and external, and they are plastered differently.

You can work on the inner corners with the aid of the wooden bar and angle spatula. One wall was first built and allowed to solidify. The second wall is plastered after that. The wooden rule or bar is affixed to the level in the corner where the hardened wall meets the unhardened plaster, and it is positioned at the end of the corner plaster spatula.

The plaster rule is affixed to the wall at the corner spatula’s distance from the wall.

Next, apply pressure with this corner spatula to the bar, remove any excess plaster from the hardened wall, and lead. A 20–30 cm removal is required. If the holes don’t turn out, you’ll need to use a corner spatula once more and add plaster. The bar will need to be taken down once the angle is ready and the grout will need to set as the plaster solidifies.

This is how the outer angles need to be plastered. One wall was first built and allowed to solidify. There is a wooden bar or rule attached to the edge of this wall. A lighthouse is positioned vertically on the wall that does not yet have plaster; these are typically placed beforehand on all walls that will receive plaster. Subsequently, they apply plaster to the wall and guide it with a rule that runs along the lighthouse and across a wooden bar.

This is how the outer angles should be plastered.

The excess plaster is scraped off, and in the event of a shortage, new plaster is added in accordance with the rule. Оогда штукатурка будет выровнена, ей дают ćатвердеть и снимаят деревяннуя планку. After that, sandpaper is used to wipe and gently clean the angle.

In many cases, the inner and outer angles must be completed right away if one of the walls is extremely short. The external and internal angles are adjacent to a small area that is left after plastering large walls. Once the large walls have solidified, level a very even wooden bar to the large wall’s outer corner. The solution is then thrown onto the little area that is left.

Plaster is subject to the square rule.

Place a square on its side against a wooden bar and its other against a large wall that the inner corner of the square adjoins. Once it has been driven up or down, extra plaster is scraped off and boiled plaster is leveled. It is crucial that the large wall that the inner angle is adjacent to is extremely level. You can take out the bar and grout once the plaster has seized.

Plaster of the slopes is made with wooden even strips; on the upper slope, a plaster grid is fixed; plaster is also applied to the internal and external angles of walls.

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Corner for plaster of the slopes of the facade

When working with plaster, it’s critical to process angles correctly. Sometimes, simply understanding the order in which plastering should be done is insufficient to accomplish this. Slopes, facades, and exterior walls of walls are the most challenging areas. Outstanding outcomes ensure that special corners are used.

Net-covered corner

What are the corners?

The corner is a unique plastic or metal corner beacon designed specifically for plaster. Utilizing such a product entails the following:

• The corner is pressed into the ground and is covered with plaster on top.
• In this case, an angular spatula can be used.
• The reinforced angle allows you to fix the plaster well so that it does not crumble.

The sloping plaster procedure

Because even a small physical impact can have a terrible effect on the corners (damage will probably still be visible there), it is preferable to install a special profile and keep the plaster away from the wall. It is advised that you abide by the following guidelines:

• The corner for plaster should be installed over the entire length of the rib of the wall to make the surface straight on both sides.
• It is required that the corner is set in terms of level. It should be at an angle of 90 degrees to the ceiling or floor. For alignment, you can also use the lighthouse rail.
• Do not forget that the corners for plaster must be hidden, and not displayed. These devices are not decorative elements.

Examine the photo to see how the wall angle mounting is done.

Plaster corner when decorating facades

Using natural materials is a major factor in the benefits of plastering a facade. Plaster corners and a metal mesh are used as reinforcement to ensure a long service life. The following is the procedure for installing these devices:

• The corners for plaster on the facade are installed on a cement solution, in which alabaster is added. This contributes to rapid hardening. In this case, the vertical level on both sides of the corner should be observed.
• Before continuing the finishing work of the facade, you need to wait until the solution completely freezes.

Plaster corner for slope decorating

The building’s appearance will not improve if you replace the windows in the house without also installing beautiful slopes. Although they used to take a long time to complete, you can now complete them in a few hours thanks to modern building materials. In addition to using specialized tools for metal or plastic angles, slopes can also be created by poking a net through a corner, as shown in the picture. There is no denying the benefits of using these products here:

• Ready -made corners guarantee the strength and durability of slopes.
• The ideal vertical of slopes can be provided if you use the level.
• It is convenient to use them.
• The corners for plaster simplify the process of installing slopes as much as possible.
• Ready -made slopes are environmentally friendly and aesthetic.
• The price of these products is affordable.

Crucial! Accurate measurements are required in every case.

Modern building materials and specialized equipment allow even a novice to perform the process of plastering even the most intricate areas.

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Perforated corner for plaster

The desire for comfort and beauty in housing repair. Furthermore, it is not frightening if the plane is shifting or the walls are uneven. What matters most is that it has a lovely and balanced appearance. How can this be accomplished?

A direct, clear edging is said by a select few to be the key to the walls’ aesthetic appeal. The following areas of plaster and putty use are meant to be understood by this concept:

• External and internal corners;
• adjacence of walls at ceilings and floors;
• The protruding parts of any structures (arches, boxes, other designs).

Each of these locations (Kant) needs to line up with the intended layout. The direct should be oval-oval and straight. With nearly bare hands, the former male plaster sought acceptable quality. However, contemporary accessories streamline and expedite the procedure.

Actually, each one of them is a plaster-perforated corner. Only two types exist: subspecies, which are considerably more, and straight and arched varieties. They are utilized practically everywhere putty and plaster mixtures are used.

Right angle.

Both internal and external angles have direct performance. It can be of different widths, as well as aluminum, galvanized or plastic (from polyvinyl chloride). Generally speaking, nothing differs. It cannot be said to be better or worse. However, the galvanized angle is more resilient than the others. Particularly the wider one. As such, using it as a plaster lighthouse is convenient.

Use high-quality, sharp metal scissors to cut the angle; the bent edges will look fantastic. In contrast, a standard stationery knife cuts plastic products flawlessly. If you don’t have a knife, scissors, or grinder on hand, you can simply break the perforal. Plots, hammers, or even just fingers can easily straighten the uneven edges.

For plastering angles, any straight corner results in a V-shaped profile. There are numerous holes—perforations—along the entire plane of its sides, or shelves. When the top of the angle is released, it sticks out about 1 mm from the shelves. Additionally, it protrudes outward in the outer corners and inward in the inner ones. For dependable fastening, perforation is required; the peak functions as a spatula’s guide.

Advice: You can fold the perfacks by themselves to create a dozen pieces of the same length. Then, using a tape measure, cut off the entire pack, like a grinder. And parts two through three will check the scissors for metal.

The rationale behind the perforated corner and the installation techniques

There are two ways to install this finishing accessory, depending on the task: on an aligned surface or on a curved angle.

The corner is a beacon.

The product will function as a plaster beacon in the first scenario. A plaster mixture is applied to the base angle in preparation for installation. By the way, working with plaster is more convenient than working with cement. It ought to be used with these cakes, not the whole length of the Kant, to make it easier to level and adjust the angle along the plane. Use the plastering rule and construction level to make this adjustment.

A handful of cement or any other type of cement mixture added to gypsum plaster will cause the plaster beacon to grab within minutes. You can get back to work right away. It is best to cut the corners at a 45-degree angle where perpendicular planes intersect in order to prevent overlap.

It should be mentioned that using the internal Perfo large as a plaster lighthouse is incredibly inconvenient. Only emphasizing the edging’s directness is appropriate.

Installing a corner with a net under plaster is advised in passing areas where external angles may be subjected to intense mechanical loads. The angle is reinforced by fiberglass plaster mesh that is securely fastened to a plastic or metal corner.

Precisely, this kind of perforated angle serves as a beacon. After all, since approximately 5 mm of plaster must be applied on top of the grid, it is nearly impossible to conceal it beneath a layer of finish putty.

Advice: If you want to strengthen the standard Perfo large, you can attach a sickle-shaped grid to its shelves using wall capture glue. Additionally, fiberglass or non-woven strips work well for this. Putty works just as well as glue.

Corner – protective lining.

The perforated corner serves to highlight the straight line and shield the angle from mechanical damage if the wall and all of its corners have already been qualitatively plastered.

The first option’s installation technology is largely comparable to this one. The mixture should have a more liquid consistency, with only a thin layer of the solution used.

A corner for aluminum or plastic plaster is ideal for achieving this purpose. Furthermore, using putty or a plaster mixture to fix it is not at all necessary. Since the base is already direct, the corner should be pressed against the base to form a clasp.

Installing such a system can be accomplished with tiny screws, nails, or stapler brackets. All that needs to be done is make sure the corner and its shelves don’t get distorted in the process.

Advice: Often, their hats are interfered with by protruding self-tapping screws and nails. They can be taken out after grabbing the corner to prevent this.

Additionally, when decorating structures made of GKL, it is usually necessary to install a perfume with a minimum layer of solution. Of course, if they are gathered in a generally excellent condition.

With a glue strip on the inside of the shelves that is powered by regular water, the self-adhesive perforal is ideal in this situation. The same materials must be used to dock the corners if necessary: plastic ones are connected to plastic and t.D.

The truth is that different plaster corners can have varying dimensions, which will have an impact on the finish.

Slot plaster.

Slopes on windows, doors, and other openings are particularly dangerous because anyone looking at them will naturally compare them to the window or door. In other words, using straight lines. This implies that any deviations from the window or door lines are not acceptable. Regarding adherence to the standard, it is possible for the windows to be a little messy.

Slopes are therefore mostly found in level areas. It is advised to use the corner for plaster slopes in this situation. And again like a lighthouse made of plaster. If the slopes were installed from GVL or GCL and were of low quality, the Perfo large will assist in removing all of the flaws.

By the way, plastering is required prior to mounting on GKL or sandwich panel slopes, basic brick slope, using technology. In this instance, the installed perforated corner will aid in appropriately displaying a drywall sheet.

Arched corner.

Everything is clear with the finish of straight angles. What benefits do multiple levels of ceilings, arches, and other figure structures have on the ideal? Ultimately, the plaster rule, building level, and even a direct perforator won’t be of any assistance in this situation.

For this purpose, an arched plaster perforated corner is used, which is slightly modified. First off, an angle of this kind is always pliable. Second, there is a cut across one of its shelves with petals. This choice gives this accessory the flexibility to replicate the shape of nearly any smooth bend.

Advice: Keep in mind that you cannot use a level or rule to adjust arched angles that you are installing beneath plaster. This is only accomplished visually, with the eye. Good lighting and the assistance of another person will be beneficial. It needs to be slightly squeezed before the corner is installed to prevent the petals from protruding through the plaster.

Arched corners can be soft or hard, depending on the manufacturer. Hard is typically more costly. However, it’s essential when adorning massive structures with flowing shapes.

The truth is that his desire to straighten guarantees that the lines are perfectly round and do not have any "angularity." However, attempting to use such a corner on tiny décor pieces with sharp bends will cause it to fracture and become unfixable.

Gentle arches You can complete more pronounced turns with Perfogol for Plaster, such as arches with small circle radii and other rounding. But the appearance of hollows and hillocks on the processed lines is threatened by the profile of such a corner’s lack of stiffness. It is advised to mount soft arched corners using a plaster mixture to prevent the occurrence of this issue.

First, using this fastening technique offers the opportunity to make any visual corrections during the plastering process. Second, fasteners such as self-tapping screws won’t pull the bending lines over themselves. They should be mounted a little closer together to give the arched corners a smoother appearance.

Corners – savings or embezzlement?

A corner for plastering slopes or any other Perforte is an inexpensive accessory to have; an average aluminum perfugla costs about 40 rubles. The cost of plastic is comparable. Galvanized costs 60 rubles, which is a little more. However, the direct reinforced corners or hard arches can be purchased for between 150 and 200 rubles.

Additionally, there will be more than a dozen corners of these if we are initially discussing the decoration of the entire house. A significant amount of them may be wasted because their docking isn’t always appropriate. As a result, the expenses will be high.

However, the angle protection that provides the device described is also very expensive. Not to mention speeding up the plastering or painting process. It is also feasible to save money on this by changing the plastering beacons’ corners.

Advice: A lot of people mistake a perforated angle for a traditional finishing corner, which is very different from finishing work. The primary distinction between them is that the second choice is a finishing element only. Liquid nails are the answer to the question of how to join a plastic corner to ornamental plaster. It should be noted that finishing angles vary as well.

After completing extensive repairs, it is imperative to purchase perforated corners. Any attempt to function without them will undoubtedly backfire. And since the master ensures quality, it is preferable to solve his problems when deciding which corners to buy.

An essential component for leveling the common plane of the room’s space is a perforated corner for the plaster of the slopes of the windows and doors. Making Use of

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Types of Coats	Benefits
Acrylic Coat	Weather-resistant, flexible, easy application
Silicone Coat	Durable, water-repellent, mold-resistant

Selecting the appropriate coating for the exterior of your home is essential for both style and weather resistance. The choice of coating for plastered slopes can have a big impact on the exterior durability and appeal of your house.

Acrylic render is a well-liked choice for plaster slopes because of its adaptability and resilience to weather. The capacity of acrylic render to expand and contract with the structure of the building is well known for preventing cracking over time. Additionally, it is available in an extensive array of hues and textures, enabling homeowners to customize the facades they want.

A further option is silicone render, which has superior breathability and water resistance. Because silicone renders don’t grow algae or fungus, they are appropriate for environments with a lot of moisture or humidity. They offer a glossy, long-lasting finish that improves the facade’s overall appearance.

For individuals who prefer a more conventional method, cement render is still a reliable option. Because of its durability and strength, cement render is a good choice for high-impact or wear-prone areas. Depending on the intended look, it can be finished with a variety of textures, from textured to smooth.

In the end, the decision between these coatings is influenced by variables like climate, preferred appearance, and maintenance requirements. You can improve the aesthetic appeal of your house and guarantee durable weather resistance by choosing the appropriate coating for your plastered slopes.

Video on the topic

Slopes without cracks. Plaster slopes with a corner.

How to establish a painting corner .

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